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BRIGHTON. 

















































































































































































































































































BLACK’S 


GUIDE TO BRIGHTON 

AND VICINITY 


INCLUDING 


LEWES, SHOEEHAM, AND NEWHAVEN 

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EDINBURGH 

ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK 


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ADVERTISEMENT. 


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This Guide forms a part of “ Black’s Guide to Sussex,” 
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CONTENTS. 


-♦- 

Brighton. —Hotels—Distances—Conveyances—Bathing—Situa¬ 
tion—Advantages as a Watering-place—History—Chain Pier 
—Pavilion—Queen’s Park—Royal German Spa—St. Nicholas 
Church—Public Buildings—Hove—The Beach, etc.—Hints 
for Rambles ....... 


VICINITY OF BRIGHTON. 

Newhaven. —Ovingdean—Rottingdean . 

Lewes. — Hotels, etc.—Early History — Castle—Priory of St. 
Pancras—Southover Church—St. Michael’s in Foro—St. 
Anne’s Church — St. John’s Sub-Castro — All Saints Church 
—St. Thomas-at-Cliffe—Other places of interest 

The Devil’s Dyke. —Preston—Hollingsbury Castle 

W orthing. —Hankleton — Portslade — Southwick— Ivingston-by- 
Sea—Old and New Shoreham—Excursions from Worthing . 

Chichester. — Hotels, etc. —History — Cathedral — Episcopal 
Palace—Market Cross—Town Hall—Parochial Churches—St. 
Mary’s Hospital ...... 


PAGE 

9 

19 

23 

38 

39 


45 















. 





































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ILLUSTRATIONS 


Map of Sussex. 

Plan of Brighton. 

Arms of Brighton. 

View from Chain Pier. 
Chichester Cathedral. 

Chart of London and Brighton, 
and South Coast Railway. 















BRIGHTON 


SchIc of >6 a Mile. 


-J Furlong* 


Bristol 

Garden* 










































































































































BRIGHTON. 


\ 

[Hotels: Bedford, Old Ship, Royal York, Grand Hotel, German House (sea 
front), Boyal Albion, Bristol; New Ship, New Steyne, Norfolk (now rebuilt), 
Globe (Family and Commercial), 4 Manchester Street, White Hart, Post Office, Pier, 
Clarence, etc. etc. 

50£ m, from London by rail —53 m. by road ; 8 m. from Lewes : 9 m. from New- 
haven ; 6 m. from Shoreham ; 4jm. from Rottingdean; 51 m. from the Devil’s Dyke; 

m. from Bramber; 28 m. from Chichester. 

it3T Omnibuses to meet the trains, between Hove, Brighton, and the Railway 
Station (on the north of the town). Conveyances, daily, to Lewes and Shoreham. 
Flys, Is. 6d. per mile.— Post Office; 3 arrivals and 5 departures daily. Baths : Brill’s, 
Creale’s, Hobden’s, and Mahomed’s— Bathing Machines, Is. each person—Railway 
journey to London occupies 1 hour 20 minutes by express, and 2 hours by ordinary 
trains. 

Population, including Hove, 69,726.—Average number of visitors, 30,000.] 

“ Brighton,” says Hazlitt,“ stands facing the sea, on the bare cliffs, 
with glazed windows to reflect the glaring sun, and black pitchy 
bricks shining like the scales of fishes. The town is, however, 
gay with the influx of London visitors—happy as the conscious 
abode of its sovereign ! everything here appears in motion— 
coming or going. People at a watering jdace may be compared 
to the flies of a summer ; or to fashionable dresses, or suits of 
clothes, walking about the streets. The only idea you gain is, of 
finery and motion.” Thackeray, in The New t comes, writes of it 
more eulogistically :—“ It is the fashion,” he says, “ to run down 
George 1Y. ; but what myriads of Londoners ought to thank him 
for inventing Brighton ! One of the best physicians our city has 
ever known, is kind, cheerful, merry doctor Brighton. Hail, thou 



10 


BRIGHTON. 


purveyor of shrimps, and lionest prescriber of South Down 
mutton ; no fly so pleasant as Brighton flys ; nor any cliffs so 
pleasant to ride on ; no Shops so beautiful to look at as the Brigh¬ 
ton gimcrack shops, and the fruit shops, and the market. ” Mr 
Thorne’s graphic description will interest the reader :—“ If some 
daring engineer were to lift the line of houses facing Park Lane, 
place them upon the south-coast railway, convey them to the sea¬ 
side, and plant them directly alongside the beach, he would 
make an almost exact resemblance to Brighton as viewed from 
the sea. So much does the line of houses facing the cliff re¬ 
semble some parts of the West-end, that the spectator who has 
been shot down from town in an hour by the express-train, finds 
a difficulty in believing that he is far away removed from his old 
haunts, until he turns to the bright sea, which lies before him 
like a flat and polished mirror, and champing and frothing upon 
the pebbly beach below. The western extremity of the town, 
which is bounded by Adelaide Crescent and Brunswick Terrace 
and Square, lies comparatively low : and from this point to 
Kemp Town, which is fully 3 miles to the east, runs a splendid 
promenade. The life and variety which everywhere meet the eye 
along this pleasant walk, is perhaps unequalled.” The great draw¬ 
back of Brighton, however, is its want of shade. It has no 
trees to afford a coolsome shadow—no obscure groves, no ro¬ 
mantic bowers—though, indeed, Hood has protested “that of all 
the trees he ever saw, none could be mentioned in the same breath 
with the magnificent Beach at Brighton.” 

But now a-days everybody goes to Brighton. It is brought 
so near to London by the agency of the rail ; the excursion fares 
are so moderate ; there is such a reality of sea about it—not like 
that shrimp-abounding town—yclept Gravesend, which is simply 
brackish —that we marvel not the eager Londoner starts away, 
fifteen minutes before eight, to enjoy “ six hours” at this city of 
chalk. There are grand, lofty cliffs, glittering like ramparts of 
silver or walls of pearl. There is a glorious expanse of ocean- 
waters, ever varying from blue to green, and green to purple, as 
they surge and seethe in sunshine or in shadow ; aye, ocean waters, 
only bounded by the dim circle of the distant sky. And there 
is a pebbly beach, with huge clusters of dank seaweed, and trim 
fishing boats hauled up above the tide-mark, and—yes, we must 
proclaim it—most loveable groups of dark eyes and blue eyes, 
bent, apparently, upon their sketch-books, or the pages of the 


BRIGHTON. 


11 


last new novel. “ A day out,” if spent at Brighton, is a day to 
be remembered. We once heard a mechanic, in an excursion 
train, describe this favourite town in language quaint, but not 
elegant : “It’s a stunning sight,” said our emphatic friend ; “for 
all the world like Piccadilly gone out to sea !” 

Certainly, there is little sign of antiquity about the good 
town at present, and yet its annals begin at a period not within 
the memory of even “ the oldest inhabitant.” It was, probably, 
a British settlement, for in its vicinity are numerous traces of the 
rude fortifications or “ earthworks ” of our ancestors. That it 
existed during the Saxon period of English history is indisputable. 
Its name is Saxon, derived, it is said from Brihthelm, a Bishop 
of Selsay, and we know that it paid a rent, or “ gablurn,” to Earl 
Godwun, the great Saxon noble. In 1081, this rental was paid 
in herrings (4000 halices) yearly—equivalent, in our money, to 
something like £300. There were then two distinct settlements 
here— one upon the heights, “ a colony of landsmen ; ” one upon 
the shore, a village of jugs or fishermen. It w r as then called 
Brighthelmstone, a name it retained until very recently ; and 
was numbered among the rich manors bestowed by William the 
Conqueror on his loyal adherent, Earl de Warrenne, who exercised 
almost a sovereign sw T ay over the fair county of Sussex. 

The French attacked the town, and burnt it, in the reign of 
Richard II. In 1513, they again made a descent upon the coast, 
under “ Prior Jehan,” but were compelled to retreat, with con¬ 
siderable loss. During the war between Henry VIII. and 
Francis I., in 1545, they harassed the whole southern coast, 
under their high admiral, Claude d’Annebault, who, says the old 
chronicler, Holinshed, “ hoisted up sails, and with his w T hole 
navie came foorth into the seas, and arrived on the coast of 
Sussex before Bright-Hamsted (Brighton), and set certain of his 
soldiers on land to burne and spoile the countrie ; but the 
beacons were fired, and the inhabitants thereabouts came dowm 
so thick, that the Frenchmen were driven to flie, with losse of 
diverse of their numbers, so that they did little hurt there.” 

Shortly after this event, considerable fortifications w r ere 
erected. There was a circular fort, called the Block House, and 
a battery called the Gun Garden, and a flint wall, 400 feet long, 
“ from the east gate westward, v r here the cliff was lowest ; and 
from that point a parapet three feet high, with embrasures for 
cannon, was continued to the west gate.” These no longer exist. 


12 


BRIGHTON. 


There was, also, a small battery at the verge of the cliff, on the 
King’s Road, which mounted six forty-two pounders ; but Brigh¬ 
ton’s present defences are England’s “ wooden walls,” well 
manned by “ hearts of oak.” 

Amongst the interesting events of Brighton history, we must 
not omit to record the escape of Charles II. from Cromwell’s 
troopers. After the fatal battle of Worcester—which Cromwell 
might well speak of as his “ crowning mercy,” for it placed the 
English sceptre virtually in his hands—the unfortunate king 
made his way, in disguise, to Brighton, where he arrived on the 
13th of October. He passed the night at an inn (The King’s 
Head) in West Street ; and the following morning moved to 
Shoreham, whence he immediately departed for the French coast, 
in a small boat belonging to a gallant loyalist, named Tattersall. 
Alter the restoration, the Brighton mariner, perceiving that the 
king’s memory was very treacherous, sailed in his little craft to 
the River Thames, and moored it opposite Whitehall. Charles 
ordered it to be entered in the Royal Navy as the “ Royal 
Escape,” settled upon the gallant mariner and his heirs an an¬ 
nuity of ,£100, and presented him with a ring, which is now in 
the possession of a descendant—Sir Henry Shiffner. 

During the seventeenth century the town suffered severely 
from the raids of the sea, and in Defoe’s time, could only boast of 
six decent streets. The women employed themselves in weaving 
nets ; the boatmen were glad to obtain employment from the 
Yarmouth merchants in the herring-fishery. In 1703 and 1706 
it was further desolated by violent storms. In the latter year no 
less than 130 houses were swept away, and £40,000 worth of 
property destroyed by the inundations which accompanied the 
tempest. In a few years all traces of ancient Brighton were lost 
under an accumulation of shingle. In 1818, during some exca¬ 
vations between Middle and Ship Streets, the walls of one of the 
streets of the lower town, called South Street, were discovered 
under a layer of beach, 15 feet in depth. 

Brighton, like Yentnor, owes its present prosperity, in the 
first place, to a physician, Dr. Russell, who removed here from 
Mailing, in 1750, and resided in a house on the Steyne,— i. e., 
stane, a rock—where the Albion now stands. His portrait, by 
Zoffany, is preserved in the Old Ship Hotel. He published a 
treatise on the advantages of sea-batliing, and drew several patients 
from London to test the soundness of his theory. The Duke of 


BRIGHTON. 


13 


Cumberland, the victor of Culloden, was one of Brighton’s ear¬ 
liest patrons, and lived in a house north of the Pavilion. The 
Duke and Duchess of Marlborough also sought the Brighton 
physician, and resided at Elm Grove. Dr. Johnson accompanied 
hither Mr. and Mrs. Thrale and Fanny Burney, in 1770, and 
declared the country “ so desolate, that if one had a mind to 
hang one’s self for desperation at being obliged to live there, it 
would be difficult to find a tree on which to fasten a rope.” Miss 
Fanny visited the “ King’s Head Inn” (originally the George), 
in West Street, and gazed with loyal satisfaction on its sign—a 
head of his “ black-wigged Majesty” Charles II., who slept there 
the night before his escape from Shoreham. The Thrales and 
their friends resided at No. 75 in the same street. George IV., 
then Prince of Wales, paid his first visit to Brighton in 1782, 
and built a house here in 1784—an epoch in the fortunes of the 
town duly remembered by all loyal Brightonians. It was not 
completed until 1817, when it was taken to pieces, remodelled, 
repaired, gilded, decorated, and moulded into the present bizarre 
architectural model—the Pavilion. The Theatre was opened 
in 1807. Bedford Square was commenced in 1810. The 
Chain Pier was begun in 1822 and completed in 1823. Kemp 
Town, on the estate of Mr. Thomas Kemp, rose into existence 
between 1821 and 1830. The Marine Wall, 23 feet thick at 
the base and 60 feet in height, was built in 1827-8 at a cost of 
£l 00,000. In 1841 the Brighton Kailway was opened through¬ 
out, having cost £2,569,359, and occupied two years and a half 
in its construction. 

Brighton has recently acquired additional notoriety in connec¬ 
tion with the great volunteer reviews held in its vicinity, the last 
having been honoured by the presence of the Prince of Wales. 
Among the attractions of Brighton can scarcely be included its 
public buildings, and yet there are two or three points of interest 
to which the tourist must be formally introduced. 

The Chain Pier (charge 2d.), deserves the celebrity it has ac¬ 
quired, and is unequalled as a marine promenade. From this point 
the entire “ sea-face ” of Brighton is seen in a striking manner. It 
tvas commenced in 182 2, and completed in the following year, under 
the direction of Captain Sir S. Brown, R.N., and at acost of £30,000. 
It is 1136 feet in length and 15 feet in width, is supported by four 
piers which stand upon piles of oak driven 10 feet into the solid 
chalk, and by four cast-iron towers, 25 feet high, over which are 
carried the wrought-iron suspending chains, four deep, and two 


14 


THE PAVILLION. 


inches in diameter. Each of these four divisions or bridges is 
258 feet in length, and has 117 links of one foot each. A fear¬ 
ful storm in November 1836 overthrew this fragile structure, 
snapping the suspending rods and breaking the central bridges, 
and necessitating repairs which cost <£2000. Some injuries were 
done by a gale during the night of October 15, 1838, but, since 
that event, it has withstood in security the heaviest tempests 
which have visited our shores. 

The Pavilion cannot be visited by the tourist without recal¬ 
ling to his mind the luxurious days when George, Prince Regent, 
was eulogized as “ the finest gentleman in Europe,” and Mrs. 
Fitzherbert, “ fat, fair, and forty,” was the cynosure of admiring 
eyes. Among his companions were Lord Barrymore and his two 
brothers—a trio, known by the expressive nick-names of “ Hell- 
gate,” “ Cripplegate,” and “ Newgate Sir John Ladd, of four- 
in-hand memory; and Colonel Hanger, renowned as “ the 
Knight of the Black Diamond.” Well might Lord Thurlow 
reply to the Prince’s query, “ Thurlow, how is it you have not 
called on me ? You must find a day for dining with me.”—“ I 
cannot, your Royal Highness, until you keep better company.” 
On another occasion, when Thurlow had consented to dine with 
the Prince, he was informed that Sir John Ladd would also be a 
guest. The Prince apologized to the surly Lord Chancellor, but 
with little effect. “ I do not object,” said Thurlow, “ to Sir John 
Ladd in his proper place, but that I take to be your Royal High¬ 
ness’s coach-box, and not your table.” 

The Pavilion occupies with its gardens about eleven acres and 
a half, and is a curious combination of domes, minarets, and 
cupolas, looking, according to Sidney Smith, “ as if the dome of 
St. Paul’s had come to Brighton and pupped.” Cobbett suggests 
that a a good idea of the building may be formed by placing the 
pointed half of a large turnip upon the middle of a board, with 
four smaller ones at the corner.” Nor is this description exag¬ 
gerated in its ridicule, and he who gazes upon the monstrous pile 
can well understand “ the intensity,” of Sir Walter Scott's feel¬ 
ings when he wrote to his friend Morritt, then residing at 
Brighton (a.d. 1826) :—•“ Set fire to the Chinese stables, and if 
it embrace the whole of the Pavilion, it will rid me of a great 
eyesore.” 

The original Pavilion was commenced for the Prince Regent 
by the architect Holland in 1784, but was entirely reconstructed 


BRIGHTON. 


15 


by Nash in 1818 under the immediate direction of the Prince, 
who had fallen “ China-mad” through reading the accounts of 
Lord Amherst’s Chinese embassy. The royal stables, for sixty- 
three horses, now converted into a winter garden, cost £70,000. 
The circumference of the great dome is 250 feet. The Chinese 
gallery measures 162 feet by 17 ; the banqueting-hall, 60 by 
42 ; the music-room, 62 by 41 ; and the rotunda is 55 feet in 
diameter. These, and several other apartments, elaborately deco¬ 
rated after the Chinese manner, may now be inspected by the 
curious at Is. admission. 

William IV, sometimes resided here, and Queen Victoria 
occasionally visited it before she purchased Osborne. Her refined 
taste, however, was disgusted at its semi-Chinese monstrosities, 
and she intimated her intention of abandoning it as a royal resi¬ 
dence. It was then (1849) purchased by the town for £53,000 
—not a fourth of the sum originally lavished upon it—and has 
since been adapted for concerts, public meetings, balls, and gene¬ 
ral entertainments, remaining a building of no ordinary interest, 
though of more than ordinary architectural deformity. 

In the Queen’s Park, a pleasant plantation north of the 
town, is situated the Royal German Spa, where chemical imita¬ 
tions of the different German mineral waters are manufactured— 
to the great benefit of those who are unable to patronize the 
springs of Marienbad, Pyrmont, Seidschiitz, and Seltzer. 

The only relic of ancient Brighton is St. Nicholas’ Church, 
situated on the hill north-west of the town. It is mainly Perpen¬ 
dicular in style, was built in the reign of Henry VII., and 
restored, in 1853, in memory of the Duke of Wellington, who 
often worshipped within its walls, and was for some time a pupil 
of the vicar. The memorial then erected is a richly decorated 
Cross, by Carpenter, 18 feet high, in the south chancel. A 
scroll, entwined about the shaft, bears the magic words, “ Assaye, 
Torres Vedras, Vittoria, and Waterloo.” A figure of St. George 
is inserted in the canopied niche at the top. The east window 
represents, in rich colours, the miraculous draught of fishes. The 
perpendicular screen, of painted oak, has been painted and gilded. 
The Norman circular font, brought, it is said, from Normandy, 
has its sides adorned with sculptures representing the Lord’s 
Supper, and its base disfigured with the names of the church¬ 
wardens who officiated in the church in 1745. 

In the churchyard are placed the memorial-stones of Captain 


16 


PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 


Nicholas Tattersall, “ through whose prudence, valour, and 
loyalty, Charles II. was faithfully preserved and conveyed to 
France, 1651 — Phoebe Ilessell, panegyrized by George IV., from 

whom she received a yearly pension of <£18, as “ a jolly old 
fellow,” and who, according to her epitaph, “ served for many 
years as a private soldier in the 5th Regiment of Foot in diffe¬ 
rent parts of Europe, and in the year 1745 fought, under the 
command of the Duke of Cumberland, at the battle of Fontenoy, 
where she received a bayonet wound in the arm. Her long life, 
which commenced in the reign of Queen Anne, extended to 
George IV., by whose munificence she received comfort and sup¬ 
port in her latter years. She died in Brighton, where she had 
long resided, December 12, 1821, aged 108 years.” There is also 
a memorial to Mrs. Crouch , the actress ; and the base of the old 
churchyard cross is still extant. 

The Bishop of Chichester has the right of presentation to 
the vicarage of St. Nicholas. The vicar himself nominates to 
eight incumbencies—1. St. Peter’s (perpetual curacy), at the 
end of the Steyne, built in the Late Perpendicular style, by the 
late Sir Charles Barry, at a cost of £20,000 ; 2. St. Paul’s, in 
West Street, built by Carpenter in 1847 ; 3. All-Souls ; 4. 
Christ Church (perpetual curacy, valued at £420), built in 
1838; 5. St.John the Evangelist ; 6. All Saints’ Church 
(perpetual curacy, £200) ; 7. Chapel Royal, in Prince’s Place, 
built by Saunders in 1793 ; and 8. St. Stephen’s. There are, 
besides, St. James’s Chapel, belonging to the trustees of the late 
P. Kemp, Esq. ; St. Mary’s Chapel, Rev. H. Venn Elliot; St. 
George’s, Trinity, and St. Margaret’s Chapels, and St. Mark’s 
Church. 

In the way of public buildings, Brighton can boast of the 
Sussex County Hospital, founded in 1828, and built by the 
late Sir Charles Barry at a cost of £10,000,—the Victoria wing 
was added in 183.9, and the Adelaide wing in 1841. It is “ open 
to the sick and lame poor of every country and nation.” The 
Brighton College, a proprietary school established in 1847, 
occupies a handsome Tudor building. St. Mary’s Hall, in Kemp 
Town, is an institution for educating the daughters of poor clergy¬ 
men, and preparing them for governesses. The Town Hall, a 
large and imposing structure, 144 feet long and 113 feet deep, 
was erected at a cost of no less than £50,000. Here the magis¬ 
trates meet; the market is held ; offenders are imprisoned ; and 


BRIGHTON. 


17 


the borough elections (Brighton returns two members to Parlia¬ 
ment) transacted with a due amount of noise and bustle. 

Let us now take a Walk through the Town previous to 
resuming our rural rambles, and cursorily glance at those points 
of interest which have hitherto escaped our critical notice. We 
start from the west extremity of the town, and pass through the 
populous suburb of Hove, and near Brunswick Square descend 
upon the beach. Here we may gaze upon a scene as full of life 
as the greatest London thoroughfare,—and fuller, perhaps, of 
contrast,—for fishermen hauling up the dingy boats—bathing 
machines dipping their grotesque hoods into the brine—coils of 
old cable—fragments of spars—a net or two, and half a dozen 
oars— are combined with novel-reading ladies in the amplest of 
crinoline and the gayest of bonnets, with invalids in Bath-chairs, 
with pedestrians eager to indulge their locomotive propensities, 
with worn-out age seeking new vigour and fresh energy from the 
sea-breeze, and amateur artists outlining sundry picturesque and 
uncouth objects upon their tablets. Such is the scene presented 
until the Chain Pier is reached. “ The land side is equally alive 
with carriages and equestrians, Bath-chairs, goat carriages, donkeys, 
and promenaders. The King’s Road, which forms the western¬ 
most portion of the Promenade, or Esplanade, is terminated by 
the open space called the Steyne, over the trees of whose enclosure 
the minarets and domes of the Pavilion rise against the sky. From 
this spot the Marine Parade commences, and the ground rises 
until the roadway is full 60 feet above the level of the beach”— 
( Thorne). 

We pass Brill’s Bath, leaving the Town Hall to our left, and 
continue our road to Kemp Town. On the beach here we may 
notice the groynes or jetties,—rows of piles running down into 
the water, and planked on one side—intended to prevent the loose 
shingle from being tide-driven out to the east. “For centuries 
this process has been going on along the south coast of England, 
and within the memory of man vast tracts of land have been 
swept away by the sea. In the time of Elizabeth a great part of 
Brighton stood where the Chain Pier now stretches its iron arm 
across the sea. So constant and energetic is the action of the 
ocean that Sir Charles Lyell, the eminent geologist, anticipates 
that in a few centuries the alluvial deposit lying between the 
South Downs and the sea, and forming so fertile a plain to the 

c 


18 


NEWHAVEN. 


west of Brighton, will be swept away, leaving the bare and steep 
hill-side as the coast line.” 

Returning along the promenade, from the easternmost ex¬ 
tremity of the town, we may notice Sussex Square and the Crescent 
—the latter 200 feet wider than the famous Crescent at Bath. 
A tunnel here leads underneath the road to an esplanade formed 
upon the beach. 

Arrived at the Steyne we may visit the Pavilion—and the 
Steyne Gardens, where Mrs. Honeyman resided (See “ The New- 
comes”), and thence proceed in a northerly direction into the 
heart of the town. The Western Road is a thoroughfare deserving 
notice. The Hospital may next be visited, and afterwards St. 
Nicholas Church, whence we may once more return to the beach, 
satisfied with our survey of Brighton. 

[Hints for Rambles. —1. Across the Downs to Rottingdean, and thence to New- 
haven. Keep along the bank of the Ouse to Lewes, and return by rail. 2. By rail 
to Lewes; visit the Castle and Priory, and Mount Harry. Return by road, via 
Falraer. 3. To the Devil’s Dyke, and thence descend into the plains at Kingston. 
Visit Shoreliam, and return by rail. 4. To Worthing, thence to Sompting, and de¬ 
scend into Lancing. Return by rail. 5. Keep northward to Patching. Cross the 
hills to Stanmer, and thence to Falmer. Walk over the Downs toOvingdean, and 
return to Brighton by way of the race-course. ] 


19 


VICINITY OF BRIGHTON. 


The Downs—Ovingdean—Rottingdean, and Newhaven (9 miles). 

The walk to Newhaven, along the crest of the glorious South 
Downs, is one not easily to be forgotten, but rather to be remem¬ 
bered as “a joy for ever.” Their crisp green sward, their swell¬ 
ing lines of beauty, their shadowy coombes and denes, whether 
seen in the gray light of early morning, or reddening with the 
retiring glory of the sunset, have an inexpressible attraction—a 
charm and a character of their own. And from these lofty heights 
the eye surveys a wonderful expanse of country ; quiet leafy 
villages with a gray old church-tower or so ; a picturesque many- 
gabled house, dating from the stormy days of Tudor and Stuart ; 
broad reaches of verdurous pasture ; ample stretches of yellow 
cornfields ; a whirling, sweeping mill, on the brink of a bubbling 
rivulet; a noble mansion, crowning a gentle knoll which rises 
above a mass of vigorous foliage. Then, too, far away to the 
south glimmers the broad mirror of the Channel ;—its rolling 
waves seem fixed in repose from the elevation at which we 
stand, and only a dim, faint echo of its music falls upon the- 



20 


NEWHAVEN. 


attentive ear. If we descend to tlie shore by one of those gaps in 
the cliffs, always to be met with near a Coastguard station, we 
shall find a scarcely less interesting scene. Above us towers a 
wall of glittering chalk, 300 feet in height,—spotted with layers 
of flint which incline southward to the sea. Observe the broad 
masses of calcareous strata, 50 feet thick, in which are frequently 
found the bones and teeth of the fossil elephant,—brought hither, 
it may be, from a far off land by floating icebergs during some 
great natural convulsion in the pre-historic period. On the shore 
are frequently discovered fossil sponges of rare beauty, huge am¬ 
monites, and those lumps of black bitumen mixed with salt and 
sulphur, which are known as stromballen, or stream-balls,—the 
name given to them by the Early Flemish fishermen. 

The epicure’s delicacy, the wheat-ear, is an inhabitant of the 
Downs. The shepherds entrap him in this wise: they incise the 
turf in the shape of the letter T, cover over the hollow, and place 
at the mouth a horse-hair springe, into which the wheat-ear flut¬ 
ters at the slightest cry or movement, and is consequently caught. 
“ Wheat-ears,” says Fuller, “ is a bird peculiar to this country— 
hardly found out of it. It is so called because fattest when the 
wheat is ripe, being no better than a lark, which it equalled in 
the fineness of the flesh, and far exceeded in the fatness thereof. Tlie 
worst is, that being only seasonable in the heat of summer, and 
naturally larded with lumps of fat, it is soon subject to corrupt, 
so that (though abounding within 40 miles) London poulterers 
have no mind to meddle with them, which no care in carriage 
can keep from putrefaction. That palate-man shall pass in silence, 
who being seriously demanded his judgment concerning the abili¬ 
ties of a great lord, concluded him a man of very weak parts, 
‘ because he saw him at a great feast feed on chickens when there 
were wheat-ears on the table.’ ” 

Tlie numerous fairy-rings and hay-tracks upon the green slopes 
of the Downs will not fail to attract the tourist’s attention. It is 
now generally admitted that they originate in the growth of 
various species of fungi, but the Sussex shepherds believe them 
to be formed by the feet of dancing fairies, or, as they are locally 
called, Pharisees, who, 

“ In their courses make that round 
In meadows and in marshes found, 

Of them so call’d the fairy ground, 

Of which they have the keeping”— {Drayton). 


NEWHAVEN. 


21 


Our walk now takes us through Ovingdean (Population 149), 
the sheep valley with its picturesque little Church, partly Norman 
in style, and partly Early English. The rectory is valued at 
£355. 

Four and a half miles from Brighton we reach Rottingdean 
(population, 1084), one of the prettiest watering-places on the 
south coast, lying in a sheltered hollow which opens pleasantly 
upon the sea. Its neat cottages are embowered in trim gardens. 
Its Early English Church, dedicated to St. Margaret, is maintained 
in decorous neatness. Here, at a school kept by Doctor Hooker, 
the author of “ The Caxtons ” received his early education. 
Here, too, a band of marauders was bravely repulsed, in Septem¬ 
ber 1377, by Prior John de Cariloco, of Lewes, and his retainers, 
though the priest militant was unfortunately taken prisoner. The 
Earl of Abergavenny has the patronage of the vicarage, which is 
valued at £332 per annum. 


NEWHAVEN (9 miles from Brighton). 

[Population, 1358.] 

This beautiful watering-place lies in a deep valley, at the 
junction of the Ouse with the Channel. A swing-bridge is 
thrown across the river. The railway station is on the opposite 
bank, and communicates with a pier, whence the steamers for 
Dieppe start daily in connection with certain London trains. 
The harbour is held in considerable estimation from its position 
on the exposed coast of the Channel, and is defended by a bat¬ 
tery on the hill above. The depth at the mouth in spring-tides 
varies from 18 to 20 feet; in neap tides, from 13 to 15 feet. 
Two wooden piers protect the entrance, which is 106 feet in 
width. 

Since the establishment of the Dieppe packet-service, New- 
liaven has risen into a place of some importance. The entries of 
coasting ships, inwards , average 280 vessels of 30,Q00 tons— 
outwards, 65 vessels, of 7000 tons; of foreign vessels, inwards , 
135 vessels of 20,000 tons, and outwards, 120 of 18,000 tons. 

On a hill above the town—which consists of one long street, 
crossed by two smaller ones—stands the Church, dedicated to 
St. Michael, a Roman building, with a nave, north aisle, central 


» 


22 


NEWHAVEN 


tower ornamented by a single spire, and apsidal chancel. The 
nave and aisle are of recent erection. An obelisk, near the grave¬ 
yard, commemorates the loss of the war-brig, Brazen, stranded 
off the port, on the 6th of January 1860, with the loss of her 
commander and 104 men. Only one life was saved. 

The rectory, valued at X186, is in the patronage of the Lord 
Chancellor. 

It was at Newhaven Louis Philippe and his queen landed, as 
Mr. and Mrs. Smith, in 1840, after crossing from Triport in a 
small fishing-smack. Among those who welcomed him on his 
arrival was a Mr. Smith ; much to the astonishment of the de¬ 
posed sovereign, who naively remarked, in ignorance of the 
myriads of Smiths existing in England—that “ he thought he 
had heard the name before ! ” 

The passage from Newhaven to Dieppe is effected in about 
five hours. The steam-packets start according to the changes of 
the tide. 

In the neighbourhood are some Celtic earthworks ; the nearest 
is an oval encampment on the summit of Castle Hill. 


[Between Newhaven and Lewes are the Norman churches of SOUTHEASE 
(population, 102), and PIDDINGHOE (population, 253), which have a strong family- 
likeness, as Mr. Lower has pointed out, to the churches in Normandy. Piddinghoe, 
according to a local saying, is the place where “they shoe magpies.” On the 
opposite hank of the Ouse are the villages of EAST TARRING (population 75), or 
Tarring-Neville; HEIGHTON (population, 84), and DENTON (population, 195), 
commemorated by the jesters of the Downs as “ Heighton, Denton, and Tarring all 
begin with an A.” BISHOPSTONE (population, 328), which may be easily reached 
from Newhaven, has a remarkable Church. The tower rises in four stages, each 
gradually diminishing in diameter. In the first and second stories is a single round- 
headed window; in the third, a circular moulded window ; in the fourth, a double 
window with balusters. The tower-arch is low, but there are traces of an earlier 
and loftier one. A small spire surmounts the tower. The chancel is in two divi¬ 
sions, with Norman and English arches. The present windows are all English. 
Observe the curious porch, and the stone dial and crown over the door, lettered 
with the name of some Saxon king, Eadric, who was probably its builder. A 
stone slab, inscribed with a cross, bearing in circular compartments the Agnus Dei, 
and the symbol of two doves drinking, should be carefully examined. It appears 
to be the work of some Norman sculptor, who, however, was not ignorant of the 
spirit and influences of Italian Art. 

A monument in the chancel commemorates the Rev. John Hurdis, Oxford Pro¬ 
fessor of Poetry, and an agreeable didactic rhymester, d. 1801. The epitaph is by 
Hayley. 

The vicarage, valued at £88, is in the patronage of the Bishop of London. 1 


LEWES. 


[Population, 9821.— Inns : The White Hart, the Star, the Bear, the Crown. 51 
jtiiles from London, by road ; 50 miles by rail.—26 miles, by rail, from Hastings ; 7 
miles from Brighton ; 6£ miles from Newhaven, by road.] 

Communication with Brighton, Newhaven, Uckfield, Eastbourne, and 
Hastings by rail. With Ringmer by omnibus. There are also conveyances between 
the town and railway station, whieh is about £ a mile distant. 

LEWES is the county town of Sussex, though Chichester may 
be regarded as the capital of the western division. It lies chiefly 
on the right bank of the small river Ouse, on the slope of a chalk- 
hill, one of the glorious south downs, and others of that famous 
range are raised around it so as to shelter it, on almost every side. 
Its hilly uneven site gives to it a peculiarly picturesque ap¬ 
pearance ; it seems an old town, though without many very old 
edifices, and is distinguished by an air of decorous respectability 
and sombre importance. Around its castle and priory it clusters, 
as if it felt that all its consequence was due to them ; and whether 
viewed from the Cliff, from the high ground of Southover, or from 
its own High Street, it presents a singular and romantic character, 
not, to our thinking, equalled by that of any other English town 
save Durham. 

It principally consists of one street—the High Street— 
winding from St. Anne’s Church, east, to the foot of Cliffe Hill, 
west, about three-quarters of a mile, where it throws out two 
branches. One, named South Street, leads to Glynde, Firle, 
Alfriston, and Eastbourne ; the other, Malling Street, to Uck¬ 
field, East Grinstead, and so to London. Some smaller thorough¬ 
fares diverge from the High Street on each side. Of these we 



24 


LEWES. 


need only notice Market Street, leading from the brow of 
School Hill into East Street, which runs parallel to School 
Hill, but with an easier descent, and is better adapted for eques¬ 
trians and carriage-folk. 

Quitting the railway terminus—the focus of trains from Lon¬ 
don, Hastings, Uckfield, and Newhaven—and turning to the 
right, we see the bold ascent of Cliffe Hill before us, forming the 
eastern boundary of the Ouse valley. The suburb of the Cliffe 
extends over the marshy plain on the opposite side of the river, 
and is connected with the High Street by a neat bridge of stone. 
Looking to the left, we notice School Hill connected with the 
central part of the High Street, “ which is built on a nearly level 
terrace of inconsiderable breadth.” Here are situated the Crown, 
Star, and White Hart inns ; the County Hall ; the Markets ; the 
Castle Gateway and Keep ; and St. Michael’s Church. At the 
foot of School Hill formerly stood the east gate of the town, com¬ 
memorated in a street to the right called East Gate Street ; 
while that to the left, leading to Southover, is named Friar’s 
Walk, “in reference to the monastery of Grey Friars that 
anciently occupied the adjacent meadow.” 

Before we enter upon an examination of the notable antiqui¬ 
ties that “ do renown this city,” let us, in accordance with our 
custom, glance rapidly at its interesting annals. 

There is abundant proof of its early importance. The locali¬ 
ties in its neighbourhood have chiefly British names. Roman 
urns and coins have been found here ; numerous earthworks 
and encampments ; and some antiquarians have supposed it to 
be the site of the mysterious Mutuantonis of the geographer 
Ravermas. 

It was strongly fortified during the reign of Alfred, and in 
Athelstane’s time possessed two mints. Specimens of Lewes 
coinage have been dug up at Milton Court 9 mile 3 from Lewes, 
where they remain in Mr. Ade’s possession. From Domesday 
Book we learn that the king’s rent and tolls in Lewes amounted 
yearly to ,£6 :13 : l£, and he had 127 burgesses who were his 
immediate vassals ; and from the same authority we gather the 
following customs of the borough eight centuries agone :— 

“The seller of a horse within the borough pays Id. to the 
mayor, and the purchaser another ; if an ox, £d. ; if a man, 4d., 
in whatever place he may be bought within the rape. 

“ A murderer forfeits 7s. 4d. j a ravisher, 8s. 4d.; an adulterer, 


LEWES. 


25 


8s. 4d. ; an adulteress, the same. The king receives the adul¬ 
terer’s fine, the bishop the adulteress’s. 

u A runaway, or vagabond, that is recovered pays 8s. 4d.” 

After the Conquest, Lewes and numerous other estates be¬ 
longing to the dead Harold—the “ Last of the Saxon Kings,” 
and not the unworthiest—w r ere bestowed by the Conqueror upon 
Earl William de Warrenne, who had married his daughter Gun- 
drada, and was potent in the royal councils. This famous earl 
built the Castle of Lewes (or largely repaired the old Saxon for¬ 
tress), and, in conjunction with his wife, erected and endowed the 
Priory of St. Pancras. The fair Countess died in 1085, the 
wealthy baron in 1087. 

With the De Warrennes this noble inheritance continued 
until the failure of the male line in 1347. The seventh Earl of 
Warrenne and Surrey joined the royal party against Simon de 
Montfort and the Barons, and was the stout noble who, when 
interrogated by the commissioners of Edward the First as to the 
titles by which he held his vast estates, drew forth his sword, 
and exclaimed, “ By this instrument do I hold my lands, and by 
the same do I intend to protect them !” 

The Battle of Lewes was fought on Wednesday the 14th 
of May 1261. King Henry, accompanied by his son Prince 
Edward, and Richard, king of the Romans, arrived at Southover 
on Sunday, May 11, 1264, where he was sumptuously enter¬ 
tained by the Prior of St. Pancras, Prince Edward and his suite 
becoming the guests of Earl John de Warrenne in the Castle. 
The royal forces united with the earl’s contingent, and encamped 
outside of the town. 

De Montfort followed quickly in their footsteps. At Fletch- 
ing Common, about 9 miles from Lewes, he halted his troops, 
and despatched the Bishops of London and Worcester with the 
view of effecting, if possible, an amicable arrangement. They 
reached Lewes on the 13th, and were received by the king in 
the Refectory of the Priory ; but their mission was utterly fruit¬ 
less, and the barons found that there was no resource but the 
sword. 

By break of day on the 14th the barons’ army was in motion, 
and winding through the narrow glades of the leafy Weald, 
advanced towards the Downs by Newick and Hamsey, and 
ascended the hill by the road which winds along the steep north¬ 
ern escarpment overhanging Coombe Place (about two miles 


26 


LEWES. 


north-west of Lewes). “ They arrived on the Downs at so early 
an hour that the king’s army was unsuspicious of their approach, 
and would have fallen an easy prey had not ‘ such villanie ,’ 
as the old chronicler indignantly terms it, been inconsistent with 
the chivalrous spirit of those times. De Montfort immediately 
drew up his forces on the plain [just beyond the Lewes race¬ 
course], and having addressed them on the righteousness of their 
cause, and exhorted them to be valiant and steadfast in the glo¬ 
rious struggle in which they were about to engage, he alighted 
from his horse, and prostrating himself on the ground, again 
implored Heaven to bless them with victory. He then conferred 
knighthood on several of his chiefs, and advanced towards the 
town, which was seen at about a mile and a half distant, reposing 
in the balmy dews of a bright May morning. A foraging party 
of the royalists w T as soon descried and intercepted ; and some of 
them escaping, fled to Lewes with intelligence of its approach.” 

The ridges, divided by three deep coombes, jut out from 
Mount Harry (so called, it is said, in remembrance of Henry the 
Third) across the country to Lewes, a distance of 3 miles. Along 
these ridges pressed forward the barons’ army in three divisions, 
—the right wing commanded by De Montfort’s sons, Hugh and 
Guido ; the left, chiefly composed of London volunteers, led by 
Nicholas de Segrave ; and the van by the Earl of Gloucester. 
The reserve was under the immediate command of Leicester. 
“ The centre of the army was therefore posted on that ridge of 
the hill which descends with a gradual and uninterrupted slope 
to St. Anne’s ; the left wing occupied the north branch of the 
Downs, that extends to the Wallends ; and the right wing was 
on the southern slope, which stretches towards Southover”— 
(Mantell). 

The royal forces were also divided into three bodies : the 
centre commanded by the king, the right wing by Prince 
Edward, and the left by the king of the Romans. Bearing down 
upon De Montfort’s army they hoisted the royal standard, the 
“ dragon full austere,” and King Henry, elate with hope of an 
easy triumph, exclaimed, as he neared his rebellious subjects, 
“ Simon, je vous defie !” And so the great fight began. 

Prince Edward was speedily assaulted by Segrave’s division, 
but he repulsed them immediately, and pursued them for four 
miles without ever checking the speed of his horsemen. This 
was much to the discomfort of the barons’ host; “ but the 


LEWES. 


27 


barons,” says Grafton the chronicler, “ encouraged and comforted 
their men in such wise, that not all onely the fresh and lustye 
knights fought eagerly, but also such as before were discomfited 
gathered a newe courage unto them, and fought without feare, 
insomuch that the king’s vaward lost their places. Then was the 
field covered with dead bodyes, and gasping and groning was 
heard on every syde ; for eyther of them was desyrous to bring 
others out of lyfe. And the father spared not the sonne, neyther 
yet the sonne spared the father! Alliance at that time was 
bound to defiaunce, and Christian blood that day was shed with¬ 
out pitie. Lastly the victory fell to the barons ; so that there 
was taken the king, and the king of Romaynes, Sir Edward, the 
king’s sonne, with many other noblemen, to the number of fifteen 
barons and bannerets; and of the common people that were slain, 
about twenty thousand. For their safe keeping the prisoners 
were sent unto dyverse castellis and prisons, except the king, his 
brother the king of Almayne, and Sir Edwarde, his sonne ; the 
which the barons helde with them vntill they came to London.” 

A dreadful slaughter took place south of the town, where a 
bridge crossed the river Ouse. Numbers were drowned, and 
others were suffocated in the mud. “ From the swampy nature 
of the ground, many knights who perished there were discovered 
after the battle,’ still sitting on their horses in complete armour, 
and with drawn swords in their lifeless hands.” The king of the 
Romans at first took shelter in a windmill which then stood on 
the site of the present Black Horse Inn— 

“ The Kyng of Alemaigne wende do full well; 

He saisede the mulne for a castel,” 

but he was soon compelled to surrender. Prince Edward retired 
to the Priory, and was hotly beset by the barons, who set fire to 
the magnificent church. Fortunately, the monks succeeded in 
extinguishing the flames ; and Prince Edward gave himself up to 
the victorious Leicester. 

The immediate consequence of this great triumph was the 
treaty of peace, historically known as “ the Mise of Lewes.” Its 
grander effects our limits will not permit us to trace. He who 
with earnest eye looks around England as it is, will easily re¬ 
cognize them, and in that recognition will see sufficient cause 
for grateful recollection of the genius and wisdom of Simon de 
Montfort ! 


28 


LEWES. 


There is little else of historical interest associated with Lewes, 
which, indeed, may be well content to rest its claims to re¬ 
membrance as an English shrine upon the memorable battle which 
we have so briefly recorded. John, eighth Earl de Warrenne, 
married Joan the grand-daughter of Edward I., and figures as the 
hero of a mediaeval romance. He had found, it appears, “ one 
fairer and dearer, who occupied all his thoughts, and for whose 
sake he braved the anger of royalty, and the thunders of the 
church. It might have been that he had formed a contract with 
the beautiful Maud de Nerford before his fate was sealed to Joan. 
Such he asserted to be the case ; and in spite of all remonstrances 
he persisted in keeping her near him, and openly acknowledging 
her children ; while his wife sought, with an indignant mien, 
counsel from the ecclesiastics, who taking up her cause and that 
of morality, excommunicated the noble lover of Maud ”— {Costello). 
Edward I. and his Queen Eleanor were entertained by the monks 
of Lewes for four days, in January 1276, on their way from 
Chichester—where they had been present at the translation of the 
body of the holy St. Richard de la Wych—to Canterbury. 

Lewes Castle is gained from the High Street by a lane 
which turns off below St. Michael’s Church. The Gateway, a 
fine old structure of great strength, in the early Edwardian style, 
is about 50 feet high, with machicolated battlements, and a 
circular tower at each angle. The staples for the hinges of the 
gates, and the grooves for a double portcullis still remain. The 
front wall is of squared flints, with fire-stone facings. Within, 
the old Norman gateway and plain semicircular arch will attract 
observation. 

We now enter the outer B allium, or Base-Court, irregular 
oval in shape, extending north-east and south-west for nearly 300 
yards, and 130 yards in diameter. An artificial mound has been 
raised at each extremity, and surmounted by a keep. Of one of 
these the remains are considerable ; of the other, which crowned 
the Brack Mount, there exists but some slight traces of the 
foundations. 

We reach the existing Keep by a narrow winding path, 
closely overshadowed by trees. It was originally quadrangular, 
and strengthened by four hexagonal towers, about 54 feet in 
height from the base. The south and west towers alone remain, 
and time has adorned them with its wonted garniture of glossy 
foliage. The principal tower is occupied by the Museum of the 


LEWES. - 20 

\ 

Sussex Archeological Society, and a fee of sixpence is required 
for the privilege of admission—a sixpence well bestowed, since 
it enables the visitor who mounts to “ the leads ” to enjoy an 
extensive and magnificent view of Lewes and the surrounding 
country. The picturesque old town, with its roofs, and spires, 
and winding columns of smoke, lies immediately beneath us, and 
away to the north and south stretches the deep river-valley—the 
Ouse trailing its somewhat sluggish current through a gap in the 
chalk-hills to join the gleaming waters of the Channel at New- 
haven. Northward, the eye ranges over the leafy groves and 
tree-encompassed meadows of the Weald, to the blue line of the 
Surrey-downs. From the terrace, known as the Castle Banks, 
there is also a charming prospect which includes a portion of the 
river-valley, the clialk-pits of Offham, the villages of Mailing and 
Barcombe. 

We now descend the hill to examine the interesting ruins of 
the PRIORY of ST. PANCRAS, which, in their desolate solitude 
excited the regret of the poet Bowles. “ All,” he exclaims, 

“ All, all is silent now ; silent the bell, 

Which, heard from yonder ivied turret high, 

Warned the cowled brother from his midnight cell; 

Silent the vesper chants, the litany, 

Responsive to the organ ; scattered lie 
The wrecks of the proud pile, mid arches gray, 

Whilst hollow winds through mantling foliage sigh, 

And e’en the mouldering shrine is rent away, 

Where, in his Warrior-weeds, the Norman founder lay.” 

The ruins are private property, and there is some difficulty 
in procuring permission to view them, but from Mount Calvary 
a sufficiently good position can be obtained. Over the site of the 
once magnificent Priory Church the railway passes, and it was 
during the excavations here necessitated that the discovery was 
made of the coffins of William de Warrenne and his wife Gun- 
drada. 

Lewes Priory was erected by the great Norman baron on 
the site of a small wooden chapel, dedicated to St. Pancras, and 
colonized with Benedictine monks from Clugni, where the founder 
and his Countess had been splendidly entertained on their route 
to Italy in 1070. The edifice was completed in 1077, and was 
the first Cluniac priory in England, and the only one for a period 



30 


LEWES. 


of nearly 150 years. It rapidly rose into importance, and gained 
in wealth, and was esteemed one of “ the five chief daughters ” 
of the mother-abbey of Clugni. Thirty-two priors ruled over it 
from the time of its foundation to its dissolution in 1537. Hugh, 
the second prior, became Archbishop of Eouen ; John de Cour¬ 
tenay resigned an earldom for the abbot’s mitre ; and John 
de Cariloco, in 1377, led his retainers and vassals against the 
French at Rottingdean, and was taken prisoner. Here were in¬ 
terred the founder and his Countess, Peter de Warrenne, John de 
Braose of Bramber Castle, many of the Earls and Countesses de 
Warrenne, and other notable personages, whose names are recorded 
in Mr. Horsfield’s History of Lewes. The magnificent church of 
St. Pancras was founded in the reign of Henry II., and at the 
time of the Dissolution was rich in gold and purple, in stately 
turrets, in gorgeous shrines, in windows glowing with the figures 
of saints, apostles, priests, and barons. The revenues of the 
priory were then estimated at a sum equal to £20,000 of the 
present currency. The pigeon-house, which, until about 60 years 
ago, stood south-west of the present ruins, “ equalled in magni¬ 
tude many a parish church, and contained 3228 pigeon-holes. 
The fish-ponds, of which some traces are still discernible, were on 
a corresponding scale of grandeur. The refectory was worthy of 
so splendid an establishment. The garden probably occupied the 
large hollow area called “ the Dripping Pan,” and the Mount 
Calvary was perhaps the artificial mound near the cricket-field, 
where the tourist is now supposed to be standing. The “ lantern,” 
or prison of the priory, a circular building underground, stands in 
a private garden. 

Some notion of the general extent and splendour of the priory 
buildings may be gathered from a letter addressed to Cromwell— 
on whom, at the Dissolution, its demesnes were conferred—by 
his agent, John Portmari. It is curious enough to deserve a 
place in these pages :— 

“ My Lord—I humbly commend me to your Lordship. The 
last I wrote to your Lordship was the 20th instant (March), by 
the hands of Mr. Williamson, by which I advertised your Lord- 
ship of the length and greatness of this church, and the sale, how 
we had begun to pull down the whole to the ground, and what 
manner of fashion they used in pulling down. I told your 
Lordship of a vault on the right of the altar that was borne with 
four pillars, having about it five chapels, which were compassed 


LEWES. 


31 


with the vaults, 70 steps in length, that is, 210 feet All this 
is down Thursday and Friday last. Now we are pulling down a 
higher vault, borne up by four thick and lofty pillars, 14 feet 
from side to side, and in circumference 45 feet, this shall be done 
for our second work ; as it goes forward I will advertise your 
Lordship from time to time. And that your Lordship may know 
with how many men we have done this, we brought from London 
17 men,—3 carpenters, 2 smiths, 2 plumbers, and 1 that keeps 
the furnace,—every one of these keeps to his own office. Ten of 
them hew the walls, among which are 3 carpenters ; these make 
props to underset, where the others cut away. The others cut 
the walls. These are men exercised much better than the men 
we find here in the country, wherefore we must have men, and 
other things also that we have need of, the which I shall in a few 
days show your Lordship by mouth. They began to cast the 
lead, and it shall be done with such diligence and saving as may 
be. So, as our trust is that your Lordship will be much satisfied 
with what we do, when I must most heartily commend myself, 
much desiring God to maintain your health, and your heart’s ease, 

“Your Lordship’s servant, 

“JOHN PORTMARI. 

“At Lewes, March 24, 1538. 

“ Underneath, your Lordship shall see a just measure of the 
wide abbey. 

“ Length of the church, 150 feet ; height, 63.. feet ; the cir¬ 
cumference, 1558 feet. 

“ The wall of the front, 10 feet thick. 

“ Thickness of the steeple-wall, 10 feet. 

“ There be in the church 32 pillars standing equally from 
the walls ; a high roof made for the bells ; 8 pillars very high, 
13 feet thick, and 45 feet about. The height of the greatest sort 
is 43 feet; of the other, 28 feet. 

“ The height of the roof before the great altar is 93 feet; in 
the middle of the church where the bells did hang, 105 feet; the 
height of the steeple in the front is 90 feet.” 

Some of the monastic buildings, however, were converted into 
a stately residence for Gregory Cromwell, the great statesman’s 
son, who had married Elizabeth Seymour, sister to the Lady Jane, 
Queen of Henry VIII., and the king meditated paying them a 





32 


LEWES. 


visit, but was dissuaded by the younger Cromwell because the 
plague was raging terribly at Lewes. 

The monastic lands afterwards reverted to the Crown ; were 
bestowed on Sackville, Earl of Dorset ; and have since undergone 
more mutations of proprietorship than it would interest the 
tourist to recount. 

In the cloister school, attached to the priory in its palmy 
days, were educated Archbishop Peckham, and Edmund Dudley, 
Henry the Seventh’s unscrupulous agent, whose father was, it is 
said, the monastic carpenter-in-chief. 

The coffins of William de Warrenne and his Countess were 
discovered in October 1845, during the works carried on for the 
construction of the London and Brighton Railway. A cutting 
40 feet wide, and 12 feet deep was required, and this cutting was 
made across the site, as it proved, of part of the ancient Priory 
church, and the adjoining Chapter-house. Here, about 2 feet 
beneath the turf, were discovered the coffins of the Earl and 
Countess, now preserved at Southover Church ; and other re¬ 
mains of considerable interest, to which we shall hereafter more 
particularly allude. 

Close to the principal entrance of the Priory stands South- 
over Church, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, a curious com¬ 
position of many styles, repaired and improved some fifteen years 
ago. The chancel (at one time much larger than it is now), is 
Perpendicular ; the nave is Early Norman ; and there are also 
Early English insertions. The Norman chapel which encloses 
the remains q£ William de Warrenne and Gundrada was erected 
by subscription in 1847, from the designs of a local architect. 
The material employed is Caen stone. Figures of the Count and 
Countess, and the patron saint St. Pancras, are emblazoned on 
the richly painted windows. The floor is paved with tiles which 
glow with the escocheons of many a potent baron. Arcades 
relieve the monotony of the walls. The leaden coffins of the 
Count and Countess, respectively lettered “ Gundrada” and 
“ Willelm,” are preserved in two deep arched recesses in the 
south wall. The great Baron’s coffin is 2 feet 11 inches in length, 
that of the Countess, 2 feet 9 inches. “ From their small size it 
is clear that thev were constructed to receive the bones Ions after 
their first interment, in consequence of the decay of the original 
coffins ; and it is probable that this took place in the time of 
Henry II., when the remains of William and Gundrada were 


LEWES. 


32 


transferred from their tombs in the original church of the Priory, 
to the chapter house of the new and more splendid edifice, styled 
by the old chronicler the 1 great church of St. Pan eras the build¬ 
ing of which was begun on the anniversary of the founder’s death, 
in 1243”—(. Mante.il ). 

Of these coffins Mr. Lower supplies some interesting particu¬ 
lars :—“ The lids do not appear to have been soldered or other¬ 
wise fastened to the coffins, but merely flanged over the edges. 
The ornamentation of both is very singular, though simple. The 
plates composing them are evidently cast. A cord of loose tex¬ 
ture seems to have been impressed in the sand at regular intervals, 
and then crossed in the opposite direction, so as to produce on 
the plates a lozengy or network pattern, in relievo , with interstices 
averaging 5 inches by 3.” From measurements made by Mr. 
Pickford, Earl William’s stature was probably 6 feet 2 inches ; 
Gundrada’s, 5 feet 8 inches. 

Nearly seven centuries after the death of Gundrada, a slab of 
black Norman marble, richly sculptured, was discovered by Dr. 
Clarke, rector of Buxted, in the Shirley chancel of Isfield church, 
where it formed the table part of the mural monument of Edward 
Shirley, cofferer to Henry VHI., who appears to have rescued it 
from the ruins of the Priory, and converted it into a memorial 
for himself. At the expense of Sir William Burrell it was re- 
noved to Southover church, where, curiously enough, after so many 
changes, it has been restored to its original destination. The 
English version of the inscription is here adapted from one by 
Dr. Mantell:— 

“ Gundrad, a noble branch of ducal race, 

Pour’d out on English shrines balsamic grace; 

Like Mary holy, and like Martha kind, 

In her were truth and charity combin’d. 

Though death the part of Martha now receives, 

The better part of Mary ever lives, 

Then, holy Pancras, whom she made her heir, 

Still genial listen to our mother’s prayer! 

On June’s sixth kalend, nature’s struggle came, 

And chill’d the life-blood in her tender frame; 

Her spirit burst its marble shrine and gave 
The fragrance of her virtues to her grave.” 

In a recess in the north wall is placed an effigy, temp. Henry 
ITT ., which, from some dim outlines of the Braose armorial bear- 

D 







34 


LEWES. 


ings on the surcoat, has been supposed to personate John de Braose , 
lord of Bramber, d. 1232. Over the altar is a picture of the Last 
Supper by Mortimer. 

The rectory of St. John’s, Southover, is only valued at £35 
per annum, and is in the patronage of the Lord Chancellor. It is 
generally held in conjunction with the rectory of All Saints. 

The other churches of Lewes are St. Michael’s, St. Anne’s, St. 
John’s {sub castro ), All Saints’, and St. Thomas-at-Cliife. 

St. Michael’s in Foro stands in the High Street—conspicu¬ 
ous enough with its circular tower surmounted by a picturesque 
shingle spire. The body of the church was rebuilt in 1755, with 
the usual Georgian characteristics of plainness and deformity. 
There are two fine brasses, however, to afford the tourist some 
slight compensation ; one to John Braydforde, rector, d. 1457, 
and another to a nameless knight, temp. 1380-1400, apparently 
a member of the proud race of the De Warrennes. The tomb 
wnderneath was opened in 1828, and a leaden coffin discovered, 
enclosing “ a tall slender corpse.” 

A fine mural monument on the north wall represents a knight 
and his lady in the costume of the sixteenth century, with figures 
of their ten children. A helmet hangs above it. The following 
inscription will interest the reader :— 

“ Hereunder lye buried the bodies of Sir Nicholas Pelham, Knt. (son 
of Sir Wm. Pelham of Laughton), and Dame Anne his wife, daughter 
of John Sackvile, Esq., grandfather of the Right Hon'lde Thomas (late) 
Earl of Dorset. They had issue six sonnes and four daughters. 

“ His valrs. proofe, his manlie vertues prayse, 

Cannot be marshall’d in this narrow roome ; 

His brave exploit in great King Henry’s days, 

Among the worthye hath a worthier tombe ; 

What time the French sought to have sack’t Sea-Foord 
This Pelham did repel ’em hack ahoord. 

“ Ohiit 15 Decemhris anno Dno. 1559. 

.ZEtatis suse 44.” 

The rectory, valued at £116, is in the Lord Chancellor’s 
patronage. 

St. Anne’s Church, a neat Early English edifice, stands on 
the summit of the hill to which it gives its name. It consists of 
a nave, chancel, and tower, surmounted by a shingled spire. The 
porch doorway is enriched with the usual Norman zigzag moulding. 
A cylindrical font, richly ornamented, is ancient. A small brass 


LEWES. 


35 


affixed to the east wall of the chancel, bears a Latin epitaph to 
Dr. Twyne, a famous physician, d. 1613, who is extolled as “ the 
flower and ornament of his age,” and posterity is warned that it 
must not hope to produce “ so great a physician and so renowned 

a man.” 

To the w r est of the church, in the old days, stood the ill- 
omened Pest House, and an hospital dedicated to St. Nicholas. 

The Lord Chancellor presents to the rectory, which is valued 
at ,£190 per annum. 

St. John’s Sub-Castro is a modern building, which unhappily 
occupies the site of an ancient church of more than usual interest. 
The arch of one doorway has, however, been preserved, and a 
curious Latin inscription, of four hexameters, divided into two 
rhyming hemistichs, “ deeply and rudely cut on blocks of lime¬ 
stone,” may easily be read. Dr. Mantell thus translates it,— 

“ Here lies a knight of royal Danish birth, 

Mangnus his name, and great alike his worth ; 

Who, contrite for his sins, and spurning fame, 

A lowly, lamb-like Anchorite became.” 

The Magnus so highly extolled, and whose name has been 
misspelt by his panegyrist, was, according to tradition, a son of 
King Harold by his second wife Gitlia, sister of the Dane-King 
Sweyn. 

The site of the churchyard is remarkable ; it occupies the 
brink of an abrupt cliff of chalk, on the south side of the river- 
valley, and was originally an oblong encampment, enclosing two 
conical mounds, one at the west angle, the other at the east. A 
deep vallum surrounded it on three sides.- East of the church 
stands the tomb of Mr. Thomas Blount , “an eminent Lewes 
barber,” d. 1611, who bequeathed a silver cup to the dignitaries, 
and certain sums of money to the charities of the town which he 
adorned. 

The rectory of St. John Sub-Castro, valued at £250, is in the 
gift of the Rev. P. G. Crofts. 

All Saints’ Church, in the Friars’ Walk, at a short distance 
beyond the spring called Pinwell, has a fine Perpendicular 
tower, -with a curious and many-windowed excrescence, built by 
Wylde, in 1807. It contains a memorial to John Stanfield, and 
a good painting of St John the Baptist in prison, presented by the 
Earl of Chichester, -who purchased it in Italy. 





36 


LEWES. 


The rectory, valued at £198, is in the gift of C. Goring, Esq. 
Among the incumbents have been—Robert Cecil, the eminent 
divine ; and Thomas Aquila Dale, father of the Rev. Canon 
Dale. 

St. Thomas-at-Cliffe, dedicated to St. Thomas the Martyr, 
stands in the High Street of the Cliffe,—a venerable Perpen¬ 
dicular building, which occupies the site of a religious house 
established in honour of Thomas a Becket, shortly after the 
Archbishop’s murder. The altar-piece is a picture of the Ascen¬ 
sion, by Van der Gucht. The organ is said to be the instrument 
with which Handel delighted the lordly owner of Canons. 

The rectory, valued at £130, is in the patronage of the 
Archbishop of Canterbury. 

Let us now proceed to summarize, as briefly as may be, the 
principal objects of interest in Lewes, since the limits to which 
we are necessarily confined will not permit us to luxuriate, as 
we could wish, among the historical and legendary details con¬ 
nected with them. We may commend the tourist w r ho desires to 
dwell at greater length upon the history and romance of Lewes 
to Mr. Dunran’s, and Mr. Horsfield’s elaborate histories ; to Mr. 
M. C. Lower’s excellent handbook ; to Mr. Blauuw’s valuable 
essay on “ the Barons’ War Dr. Mantell’s “ Day’s Ramble in and 
about Lewes and, finally, to Miss Costello’s “ Legendary 
Towns.” 

[MEMORABLE PLACES and NOTABLE HOUSES.—The Star Inn contains 
a fine old staircase of carved oak, removed from Slaugham Place, the family seat of 
the Coverts; and an ancient vaulted cellar which, it is said, in the days of the 
Marian persecution served as a prison for the martyrs, many of whom were burnt 
at the stake in the street opposite the house. 

The Old House, near Southover Church, is traditionally reputed to have been 
the residence of that much-wandering Queen, Anne of Cleves. The great gate of the 
Priory formerly stood near the east end of the church, but was pulled down, we 
believe, in 1832. The side portal, however, still remains at the end of Southover 
Crescent. 

The County Hall, in High Street, built in 1812 at a cost of £10,000, contains 
a Shakspearian picture by Northcote, and a portrait of General Elliot, Lord Heath- 
field, the gallant defender of Gibraltar. 

Sireh Chapel, in the Cliffe, was erected by a fanatic, S. Jenkins, who dis¬ 
tinguished himself as W.A.—or Welsh Ambassador—and its graveyard contains the 
tomb of William Huntington, S.S., or “ Sinner Saved,” a religious enthusiast of 
remarkable character. His epitaph, written by himself, runs as follows :—“ Here 
lies the COAL-HEAVER ; beloved of God, but abhorred of men : the omniscient 
fudge at the grand assize shall ratify and confirm this to the confusion of many 
thousands ; for England and its metropolis shall know that there hath been a pro- 
>het among them. W. H. S. S.” 



LEWES. 


37 


On the Downs, between the windmill and the great chalk-pit on Offham Hill, 
are the mounds of those who fell in the sanguinary battle of Lewes. 

The Bull Lank Meeting-House was built by the Gorings, temp. King Henry 
VIII. In the house adjoining, Tom Paine for a time resided, while acting as a 
Lewes exciseman. 

Southover House was erected, in the sixteenth century, by a Mr. Newton, a 
steward of Lord Buckhurst’s, out of the ruins of the desecrated priory. It contains 
some curiously inlaid doors. In a neighbouring field are the scanty ruins—a gothic 
window, and a fragment of a chancel-wall—of an ancient Alms House, or Hospital 
for thirteen poor brethren and sisters, dedicated to St. James. 

The deep abrupt valley, known as The Coombe, should certainly be visited for the 
sake of the marvellous effects of light and shade which it presents at sunrise. 

POINTS OF VIEW.—From Plumpton Plain, Mount Harry, St. Anne’s Church¬ 
yard, and Lewes Race Course, on the west; from Baldy’s Garden* Cliffe Hill, Mount 
Cabum, Mailing Hill, and Southerham Comer, on the east; from Offham-road, Mai¬ 
ling Deanery, and Mailing Mill, on the west ; from Mount Calvary, Winterbourne 
Bridge, and road near Southover Church on the north. 

GEOLOGICAL LOCALITIES (as pointed out by Dr. Mantell):—The Chalk-pits 
at Offham ; Mailing Hill, Bridgwick, on the Ringmer road; in South Street; 
Southerham Comer; Marlpits on the Glynde road, Chalk Cliffs on each side of the 
Coombe, and the Coombe itself. 

DISTANCES OF PLACES.—East Hoathly, 7 m. ; East Tarring, 4 m. ; Glynde, 
5 m. ; Mount Cabum, 4 m. ; Offham, 2 m. ; Ringmer, 3 m. ; South Mailing, m. ; 
Stanmer Park, 1 m. ; Willingham, 2 m.; and West Firle, 3| m. 


THE DEVIL’S DYKE. 


[By the Horsham coach, which leaves Brighton every Monday, Wednesday, and 

Friday.] 

The road at first skirts the base of the South Downs, and 
passes the sequestered village of Preston (population, 625)— 4 . e. y 
Priest’s town, because it formed a part of the possessions of the 
see of Chichester—where the little Early English Church, dedi¬ 
cated to St. Peter, and consisting of nave, chancel, and tower, is 
worthy of a patient examination. On the walls of the nave are 
some rude frescoes, in red and yellow, of the murder of Thomas a 
Becket, shewing the four knights, and the monk Grim protecting 
the Archbishop with his arm. St. Michael, with his scales, is 
figured on the other side. In the nave lies the tomb-stone of 
Francis Cheynel, D.D., d. 1665, the bitter antagonist of Chilling- 
worth, whose grave he profaned with his unseemly violence. 
Douglas, the erudite author of the “ Nenia Britannica,” and the 
father of Sussex archaeology, lies interred in the churchyard. 

The vicarage, valued at £306, is in the patronage of the 
Bishop of Chichester. Hove, and its two churches, St. Mark’s 
and St. John the Baptist’s, are within this parish. Anne of 
Cleves resided here for a short period. 

From this point Hollingsbury Castle (2 miles north), a 
square camp, five acres in extent ; White Hawk Hill, a triple 
entrenchment, near the Brighton race-course, three quarters of a 
mile in circumference, and the camps on Ditchling Beacon may 
be visited, as the three points of a triangle which commanded 
the sea-coast, and overlooked the passes of the Weald. 

The tourist should now leave the high road and ascend the 
downs to the Devil’s Dyke (5£ miles from Brighton), a remark¬ 
able natural fosse, steep, abrupt, and of unusual depth (300 feet), 
which looks as if the Titans had excavated it as a defence for 
some enormous stronghold. The legend attached to it is curious : 
—the Devil, or, as the Sussex hinds more sympathizingly call 
him, the Poor Man, wroth at the number of churches which sprang 
up yearly in this neighbourhood, resolved to dig a trench from 
this point down to the sea, and so to inundate the whole country 
side. But as he was toiling by night with assiduous energy, he 
was descried by an old woman from the cottage window, who 
held up a candle that she might the better comprehend his 


THE DEVIL’S DYKE. 


39 


design, and frightening the devil into the belief that it was the 
sunrise, he immediately disappeared. When he found out his 
error, he was too ashamed of his folly to return, and the Dyke to 
this day remains—a witness to an old woman’s curiosity and the 
devil’s discomfiture ! 

On the brow of the hill beyond this immense verdurous 
fosse, the Romans formed, or rather adopted what the British 
formed, an oval encampment, defended by a wide ditch and huge 
vallum, about one mile in circumference. They also rendered 
the sides of the Dyke more precipitous, cutting them down at an 
angle of 45°. 

A pleasant “ hostelry,” where reasonable u creature-comforts ” 
may be obtained, stands on the brink of the down—a point from 
which the tourist will enjoy the most magnificent prospect in this 
part of Sussex. “ If Nature had endeavoured to create a surprise 
for man, she could not have done it more effectually than by 
leading him over the gradual ascent of a vast down, and then 
suddenly sinking the earth 600 or 700 feet in a bold escarp¬ 
ment, until it formed a plain almost limitless to the eye, and rich 
in summer foliage and yellow corn. For miles on each side the 
Downs descend into this plain in an almost perpendicular man¬ 
ner. If you throw yourself down on the edge of this fearful 
descent on a fine summer’s afternoon, and strain your eyes over 
the wonderful plain beneath, you gain a sensation of space that 
scarce another landscape in England ean afford. The valley 
before you stretches north-east to south-west a space of no less 
than 120 miles, commencing at Maidstone, and only terminating 
at the Hampshire Downs, near Poitsmouth. To the north and 
north-west the eye reaches, it is affirmed, but we confess to some 
misgivings, as far as Croydon and Norwood ; no fewer than six 
counties being rolled out, in this gigantic map, at the spectator’s 
feet, and these, for the most part, garden or park-like in culture 
and appearance.”—( Thorne ' 


WORTHING by SHOREHAM (6 miles). 

The road from Brighton to Worthing lies along the coast, in 
sight and hearing of the glorious sea. We cross a level of great 
fertility, the downs rising up to the northward like a formidable 
bulwark, and descend a slight incline into the \ alley ol the 





40 


BRIGHTON TO WORTHING. 


Adur. To our right we pass, in succession, HANKLETON (popu 
lation, 57), a small hamlet 1 mile west, with an Early English 
Church, and a Tndor manor-house—the rectory (,£209) in the 
gift of Earl Amherst ; PORTSLADE (population, 733), where 
there is an Early English Church, dedicated to St. Nicholas,—the 
vicarage (£171) in the Lord Chancellor’s patronage; SOUTH- 
WICK (population, 1190), 5 miles from Brighton, a populous village, 
whose church, dedicated to St. Michael, is large and handsome; 
and KINGSTON-BY-SEA (population, 153), where goods are for¬ 
warded for the Shoreham shipping. “ The tide once flowed by 
this place, and brought large vessels as far as Bramber, 3 or 4 
miles higher; but the navigation has long since been choked up. 
Before Old Shoreham is a marshy tract watered by the river 
Adur; its channel once ran on this side, but about thirty years 
ago [1750] was diverted towards New Shoreham, not only for the 
purpose of serving the harbour, but for gaining much good land 
from the marshes. As a proof that the sea had once occupied 
this tract, anchors have been found very far from the present 
shore ”— {Pennant). The Church is uninteresting, and is but a 
portion of the original edifice. The Wyndham family have the 
patronage of the living (a rectory, valued at £200). 

The railway is carried across the Shoreham flat by a viaduct, 
the Adur Viaduct, 550 yards in length. Old Shoreham lies to 
the right, just beyond the Portsmouth road ; New Shoreham 
occupies the banks of the Adur,—one long, squalid, and winding 
street, irregularly crossed by other streets as squalid and “ fish¬ 
like,” and chiefly inhabited by ship-builders, ship-chandlers, 
fishermen, and those who go down to the sea in ships. 

NEW SHOREHAM (population, 2590. Inns : Dolphin, Sur¬ 
rey Arms, Buckingham Arms, and Swiss Cottage) rose into importance 
as Old Shoreham, owing to the gradual silting-up of its harbour, 
fell into decay. The ancient haven, formed by the estuary of the 
Adur, was early regarded as of some maritime importance, from 
its position with respect to the coast of Normandy, and to defend 
this important pass a Norman stronghold was raised at Bramber, 
up the river, just as Lewes commanded the Ouse, and Arundel 
the Arun. King John landed here in 1199, immediately after 
the decease of Richard Coeur-de-Lion. He also embarked from 
hence in the following June on his way to France. In 1346, 
when Edward HI. fitted out two large fleets of 706 ships, Old 


SHOREHAM. 


41 


Shoreham contributed 26, whilst London furnished but 25, 
Southampton 21, and Hull only 16. But early in the fifteenth 
century the sea made rapid encroachments upon its insecure 
marshes—the port was destroyed—and the town had fallen into so 
sad a decline, that in 1432 it could but number 36 inhabitants. 

It was long before brighter fortunes dawned upon the natives 
of Shoreham, but, by degrees, a new town sprang up along the 
banks of the Adur, and in 1724, the population had increased to 
640 souls, chiefly employed in “ the building and fitting up of 
ships.” The attention of the Government was at length directed 
to the condition of the harbour, and considerable improvements 
were effected. The entrance, however, continued to the eastward, 
at the rate of a mile in forty years, until the present substantial 
piers were erected by Clegram, in 1819, and a species of canal 
fenced in. The mouth is now 218 feet wide, and at spring tides 
has about twenty feet depth of water, fourteen feet at neap, and 
only four feet at low. A light-house has been erected for the 
convenience of mariners. The principal imports are corn, grain, 
coals, and Irish produce; the export, timber. About 1100 ves¬ 
sels, of 115,000 tons, enter the harbour yearly. 

The handsome Suspension Bridge, built in 1833 at the 
expense of the Duke of Norfolk, by Clarke, the architect of the 
Hammersmith Bridge, is not only an ornament but an advantage 
to the town. It shortens the distance between Brighton and 
Worthing by 2 miles. 

The Custom House was built in 1830, and designed by 
S mir k p. Two Hospitals, and a Priory of Carmelite Friars, are 
said to have existed here, but Dryasdust himself could not dis¬ 
cover the slightest trace of either. The timber bridge over the 
Adur ( dwr , water), at Old Shoreham, 500 feet long and 12 feet 
wide, was erected in 1781. 

The principal historical association of Shoreham is the escape 
of Charles II. after the defeat at Worcester, and his preservation 
at Boscobel. Crossing the country, attended by Lord Wilmot, 
he reached Brighton on the evening of October 14, 1651, and 
passed the night at the George (now the King’s Head) Inn, in 
West Street. Early on the following morning they set out for 
Shoreham, where Captain Nicholas Tattersall had moored his bark, 
and when the tide served, effected their embarkation undetected. 
On the same day (October 15th) the Earl of Derby, one of 
Charles’s stoutest adherents, was exceuted at Bolton. 


42 


BRIGHTON TO WORTHING. 


The Churches, both at Old and New Shoreham, possess an 
unusual interest for the archaeologist. 

Old Shoreham Church (| mile west) is an Early Norman 
church, cruciform in plan, and “ remarkable for the small number 
of windows, and the consequent darkness of the nave , as also 
for possessing on the tie-beams of the chancel the tooth-moulding 
which is very rarely found carved in wood.” The central tower 
is supported by four enriched circular arches of conspicuous 
beauty. An oblong window in the south transept has a zigzag 
moulding. Mr. Ferrey has “ restored ” this interesting edifice 
with commendable care—The vicarage, valued at £458, is in the 
gift of Magdalene College, Oxford. 

New Shoreham Church was probably erected about 1100. 
It contains some Norman portions, and additions in Transiticn- 
Norman and Early English. “ When entire it was a stately and 
capacious edifice of a cruciform shape, having a tower 83 feet high, 
rising from the centre of the cross. The nave has been long 
destroyed, and what remains consists of a choir, with side aisles, 
transept, and tower. The walls of the choir, now used as the 
parish church, rise considerably higher than those of the tran¬ 
sept ; two massive flying buttresses support the upper part ”— 
(Horsfield). The windows in the aisles are semicircular ; in the 
south side they are of a later date. The choir is divided into 
five bays by Early English arches, springing from columns whose 
richly foliated capitals should receive a careful examination. The 
exterior mouldings of the arches are similarly enriched. The east 
end has a triple lancet window, surmounting three semicircular 
Norman windows. The transept and the tower are Norman and 
Transition-Norman. There is a brass of the time of Edw r ard IV. 

The vicarage, valued at £127, is in the patronage of Magdalene 
College, Oxford. 

The rail after passing through Shoreham, crosses the Adur, 
and, following pretty nearly the coast line, soon reaches 
LANCING. 


WORTHING 

Two and a half miles further and we arrive at the popular 
watering-place of WORTHING (population, 5000— Inns: The 
Sea-Horse, Nelson, Steyne'' 52 miles south of London. From 


WORTHING. 


43 


a poor fishing village it rose into sudden importance when 
George IV.’s patronage of Brighton attracted the attention of 
the fashionable world to the pleasures of sea-bathing and the 
beauties of the south coast. For their convenience an agree¬ 
able sea-walk or esplanade has been constructed, three-quarters of 
a mile in length. The sands extend their firm and pleasant 
surface for quite ten miles. The temperature is well adapted 
to invalids, the sea-scapes are beautiful, and the town is, in 
all respects, identical with other popular sea-side resorts. There 
are — a theatre, first opened in 1807 ; a Sea-house Hotel, 
where Queen Adelaide resided in 1850 ; a Chapel of Ease, built 
in 1812, and Christ Church, erected in 1843. The Downs 
rear their green crests in the rear of the town, at the distance 
from the sea of upwards of a mile. 

EXCURSIONS FROM WORTHING. 

[DISTANCES OF PLACES.—Bramber, 7 m. ; Broadwater, £ m. ; Cissbury 
Hill, 2£ m. ; Clapham, 6 m. ; Findon, 4j m. ; Highdown Hill, 4 m. ; Miehelgrove, 
3J m. ; Muntham, 7 m. ; Offington, 2 m. ; Salvington, 1£ l Sompting, 2£ m. ; 
Steyning, 6£ m. ; Warminghurst, m. ; West Tarring, 1 m.] 

DESCRIPTIVE NOTES.—BROADWATER (population, 5970, including Worth¬ 
ing), is situated in a country of “ thick hedgerows and hedgerow elms.” The 
parish, formerly included in the possessions of the knightly family of Camoys, could 
number but 300 inhabitants in 1724. In 1801 it boasted of 1018, in 1831 of 4576. 
The Church, Transitional Norman, should certainly be visited. It is cruciform in 
plan, with a low square central tower. Remark the groined roof of the chancel, 
and the rich four-lighted east window. The cross (in flutes), on the north wall. 
The palm leaves on the capitals of the columns indicate that the founder was a 
crusader. Early English arches separate the nave from the aisles. The tower arch 
is enriched with a zig-zag moulding. Observe the canopied monument, in Caen 
stone, to Thomas Lord Delawarr, d. 1526 ; a rich memorial, in the same style, for 
Thomas, 3d Lord Delawarr, d. 1554 ; and a brass to John Mapleton, rector, chan¬ 
cellor to Catharine, wife of Henry V., died 1432. The Rev. E. K. Elliot is patron 
of the rectory, which is valued at £600 per annum. 

Cissbury Hill (i. e., Cissa’s byrig—from Cissa, one of the sons of iElla, king of 
the South Saxons) rears its stately head above the plains at about 2£ miles north 
of Worthing, from which point it is easily reached. A single Fosse, from 8 to 12 
feet in depth, and a broad and lofty Vallum, enclose an oval camp, about 60 acres 
in extent. Roman coins and pottery have been discovered here, and traces of the 
foundation of a prsetorium; so that it is probable the Roman legionaries kept 
“ watch and ward ” upon this solitary height long before iElla and his sea rovers 
hunted the Britons out of their woodland villages. Some circular pits on the west 
side appear to be of British origin, and resemble those at Rowborough in the Isle of 
Wight. Celt, Roman, and Saxon, may therefore in turn have had their stronghold 
here. Southey, in February 1837, ascended this noble hill, and was delighted with 


44 


WORTHING. 


the landscape which it commands—a landscape embracing the whole coast from 
Beachy Head to the Selsea Bill. “ Worthing,” he says, “ appeared like a ruined 
city, such as Baalbec or Palmyra, in the distance, on the edge of what we knew to 
be sea, but what as well might have been a desert, for it was so variegated with 
streaks of sunshine and of shade, that no one ignorant of the place could have deter¬ 
mined whether it was sea or sky that lay before us. ” 

CLAPHAM (population, 252), is very picturesquely situated in the heart of 
green sloping downs and richly wooded dells. The village, one long irregular street, 
winds up a gentle ascent, at about 6 miles from Worthing. The Church consists 
of a chancel, nave, north and south aisles, and low tower surmounted by a shingled 
spire. It is principally Transition Norman. Among the memorials observe — a 
monument of Caen stone, with effigies, for Sir William Shelley, Justice of the Com¬ 
mon Pleas, and his wife Alice; a brass for John Shelley, temp, fifteenth century; 
and figures of an armed knight and his wife, Sir John Shelley, d. 1550, and his wife 
Alice. The patron of the rectory (£157 per annum) is the Duke of Norfolk. 

FINDON (population, 559), as its name indicates, is situated on the chalk-hills, 
on the road from Worthing to Horsham. The beautiful seat of Muntham (Mar¬ 
chioness of Bath), with its wooded slopes, is but a short distance north of the church; 
and Findon Place (M. W. Richardson, Esq.), is close at hand. The Early English 
Church is dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and consists of a chancel, nave, north 
aisle, and manorial chapel. A shingled spire surmounts its low, square, western 
tower. The patronage of the vicarage is vested in Magdalene College, Oxon. Its 
yearly value is computed at £500. 

Highdown Hill rises like a tower out of the green Clapham woods, and looks 
out upon pleasant Clapham Common. “ On crossing the hill,” says Pennant, “ we 
saw a curious monument, protected by rails, with a funereal yew at each comer, 
and a shrubbery adjacent, built by a miller still living, for his place of interment; 
the monument is strewed with many a pious text out of the burial-service, and some 
poetical inscriptions—the effusions of his own muse. He is said to have his coffin 
ready ; it runs on castors, and is wheeled every night under his bed. I was told 
that he is a stout, active, cheerful man ; and, besides his proper trade, carries on a 
very considerable one in smuggled goods.” This eccentric miller was named John 
Olliver, and died in 1793. His coffin, at his funeral, was borne round the meadow 
by persons dressed in white, and was preceded and followed by some young women 
attired in white muslin. A funeral sermon was read over his grave by one of these 
white-stoled virgins. The tomb, a flat stone slab supported by some brick work, 
stands almost in the centre of an irregular earthwork, which encloses an area of 300 
feet by 180. The view from this point is good, but not extensive. 

The hill is situated in the maritime parish of FERRING (population, 312), — i. e., 
the horse-pastures. The manor-house contains some remains of an ancient building 
where St. Richard of Chichester fed 3000 persons with bread only sufficient for 90— 
not so difficult a miracle as his monkish biographers would have us believe ! 

Michelgrove (Duke of Norfolk) was the seat of an ancient family of the same 
name, and afterwards of the Shelleys. The house was pulled down by the Duke of 
Norfolk about thirty years ago, but this spot is still to be visited for the sake of its 
exquisite bits of paint-like scenery. Hill and vale here succeed each other in agree¬ 
able alternation. 

Offington — i. e., a settlement of the Offingas — is a manor included in the parish 
of Broadwater. The ancient seat of the Delawarrs is now the residence of J. F. 





















V 














' 




















/ 









































CHICHESTER CATHEDRAL 











































































































CHICHESTER. 


45 


Daubenny, Esq. It lies about half a mile west of Broadwater, in a small park which 
has long been colonized by “ a family” of rooks. 

SOMPTING (population, 559)— i.e., a settlement of the Somptingas—has an in 
teresting church, picturesquely situated on the slope of a hill, embosomed amid 
venerable elms. A portion of the manor formerly belonged to the Norman Peverels, 
and another to the Abbey of Fecamp ; hence the names, retained to the present day, 
of Sompting Peverel and Sompting Abbots. The church is cruciform in plan, with 
a nave, chancel, and transept, and a western tower terminating in a pointed gable, 
out of which rises a shingled spire. The tower and east end of the chancel are said 
to be Saxon; the remainder of the edifice seems Transition Norman, unless we 
ascribe a pure Norman origin to the chancel. Perpendicular windows have replaced 
the original circular-headed lights. Early English arches, springing from circular 
pillars, divide the north transept into two aisles. Both north and south transepts 
open into the nave with lofty circular arches. Remark the triangular piscina on 
the south side of the chancel,—a Perpendicular altar-tomb without name or date,— 
and the double aumbry over the altar. A rude sculpture (Early English) of a bishop 
in the act of benediction is placed in the south transept, and in the north, a similar 
figure of the Saviour with an open book, surrounded by the Evangelist symbols. 

The lower outer wall of the tower is evidently Saxon. Remark its courses and 
bands of stone. The upper portion has Norman enrichments. The church may 
therefore be regarded as a Norman enlargement of a small building erected towards 
the close of Edward the Confessor’s reign. 

E. Beuker, Esq. is the patron of the vicarage, which is valued at £160 per 
annum. 


CHICHESTER— (Cissa’8 Camp). 


(Population, 8331. Inns : The Dolphin, The Globe. 28 miles from Brighton, by 
rail; 10 m. from Arundel; 16 m. from Portsmouth; 3£ m. from Boxgrove; 6 m. 
from Bognor; and 10 m. from Midhurst. 

Sgr Omnibuses run between the city and the station. Coaches run daily to and 
from Godaiming, three times a week to Petworth, and daily to Midhurst 




46 


CHICHESTER. 


CHICHESTER, the ancient Regnum, presents, in its main 
streets, running in straight lines east and west, and north and 
south, and its lesser streets diverging at right angles from them— 
an exact reproduction of the old Roman plan. Its walls, 1£ mile 
in circuit, stand on the foundations of the ancient walls, and are 
fashioned out of their materials. A portion of the old wall, on 
the west side of the city, now forms a pleasant public walk. 
Coins, urns, bits of tesselated pavement, and other relics, remind 
us, at almost every step, of its Roman masters—of the city where 
Cogidubnus, King of the Regni, and the viceroy of the Emperor 
Claudius, held his royal state. It stood at the point where the 
Stane Street, which connected Regnum with Londinium, crossed 
the great via to Portus Magnus (Porchester) ; at the head of the 
east branch of the creek now known as Chichester Harbour, and 
in the shelter and shadow of the lofty Southern Downs. When 
Ella landed on the Sussex coast, his forces pushed forward from 
their point of disembarkation (at Cymen’s ora, now Keynor, 7 
miles south, so named from ore of Ella’s sons) across the level 
marshes into Regnum, which they devastated with fire and sword, 
and out of its ruins built up a Saxon settlement, called, in honour 
of their chief leader, Cissa’s ceaster. We hear but little of it 
during the Anglo-Saxon supremacy. After the Conquest it was 
absorbed among the possessions of Robert de Montgomery, who 
built a small castle in its north-east quarter, destroyed in the 
first year of Henry the First. Three mints were established here, 
temp. King John. Its walls, strengthened by 16 semicircular 
towers, were frequently repaired, but could not resist the assault 
of Sir William Waller’s troops, who surprised here Lord Hopton 
and the royalists in 1642. The siege was of the briefest. “ They 
within the town were easily reduced to straights they could not 
contend with ; for besides the enemy without, against which the 
walls and the weather seemed of equal power, and the small 
stock of provisions, which in so short a time they were able to 
draw hither, they had cause to apprehend their friends would be 
weary before their enemies, and that the citizens would not prove 
a trusty part of the garrison ; and their number of common men 
was so small that the constant duty was performed by the officers 
and gentlemen of quality, who were absolutely tired out; so that, 
after a week or ten days’ siege, they were compelled, upon no 
better articles than quarter, to deliver the city”—( Clarendon ). 

The victorious Roundheads immediately began their icono- 


CHICHESTER CATHEDRAL. 


47 


clastic labours. They demolished the cathedral organ, a crying 
in scoff, ‘ Hark ! how the organs goe !’” defaced its ornaments, 
destroyed its tombs, and despoiled them of their brasses; battered 
down the churches of St. Pancras and St. Bartholomew ; and 
pillaged the houses of all who were suspected of being “ malig- 
nants.” Sir William Waller fixed his head-quarters at the Grey 
Friary House, and “ billeted ” his soldiers in the Cathedral. 

It may be added that Algernon Sidney was governor of 
Chichester in 1645. 

The poet Collins was born in this quiet cathedral city on 
Christmas day, 1720, and died here, in a house in the cloister, 
in 1756. Another of its worthies was Bishop Juxon, born August 
24, 1591. Hayley was also a Chichester celebrity — “ a star of 
the sixth magnitude,” which hid “ its diminished head” after the 
uprising of greater minds. A good portrait of Cowper’s friend 
and biographer, by Romney, is preserved in the house of Mr. 
Mason, and other souvenirs of general interest. This gentleman 
also possesses some specimens of the art-labours of George Smith 
and John Smith, “ whose genius in the art of landscape paint¬ 
ing obtained for them a merited distinction in their native 
city.” 


The first object in Chichester to which the tourist’s attention 
will naturally be directed, is its CATHEDRAL, established here 
temp. William I., on the removal of the episcopate from Selsey 
to the ancient Regnum. It was erected on the site of a Saxon 
monastery, dedicated to St. Peter, and had but a brief existence. 
It was destroyed by fire in 1114. Bishop Ralph immediately 
commenced another building, and so energetically pushed forward 
its works, that it was nearly completed in 1123. Of this vener¬ 
able structure much remains. The additions it has received will 
best be understood from the following chronological state¬ 
ment :— 

Style. Additions. Date. 

Norman. The Nave, North and South Aisles, and Tri- 

forium, are Bishop Ralph’s . . 1115-23 

Early English. The higher stones of the South-west Tower, 
and the Clerestory of the Nave, the West 
and South Porches, were added by Bishop 
Seffrid, who lengthened the Choir and 
vaulted the Roof .... 1188 


48 


CHICHESTER. 


II 


>1 


Style. Additions. Date. 

Early English. The Marble Shafts, chiefly of Petworth 

marble, were erected by Bishop Fitzrobert 1204-10 
The Spire and Chapter House, by Bishop 

Neville. 1222-24 

The two Exterior Aisles, North and South, 

Bishop de la Wych . . . 1245-53 

,, The Lady Chapel (now the Library), Bishop 

de St. Lespard .... 1288-1304 

Decorated. The Presbytery, Sacristy, South Transept, 

and Bell Tower, by Bishop John de Langton, 1305-38 
,, The Rendos and Carved Stalls and Decora¬ 

tions of the South Transept, by Bishop 
Sherbourne. 

Perpendicular. The Oratory, now the Organ Screen, by 

Bishop Arundel .... 1447 
„ The Organ, built by Harris, 1678, improved 

by Gray and Davison, 1844, and Hill . 1851 
,, The Throne, by Bishop Mawson . . 1749 


Entering the Cathedral by its Western Porch- (Early English, 
and built by Bishop Seffrid II.), we first remark the five divisions 
of the Nave —a characteristic which distinguishes it from all 
other English Cathedrals, but which is not altogether to be 
admired. Much picturesqueness of effect, however, is produced 
by their constantly shifting lights and shadows. The cleres¬ 
tory, and the Purbeck marble of the piers are to be ascribed 
to Bishop Seffrid. Bishop Richard de la Wych (1245-1253), 
was the builder of the additional aisles, designed for chantries 
or side chapels. The piscinas and aumbries in the walls indi¬ 
cate the positions of the different altars. Observe that the side- 
shafts are triple, the bearing shafts “ clustered in threes,” with 
three triple vaulting-ribs above, symbolic of the Holy Trinity, 
to whom Bishop Seffrid dedicated this part of the Cathedral. 

The stained glass in the two western windows is by Wailes. 
The larger one is a memorial to the late Dean Chandler, erected 
by the parishioners of All Souls, St. Marylebone, where he was 
rector for many years. The memorial window, in the north 
aisle, to Sir Thomas Reynell, is by O’Connor, that to F. E. Free¬ 
land, by Willement. 

The Arundel Chantry is in the north aisle. It contains 
the tomb of Caen stone—restored in 1843 bv Richardson,—for 


CATHEDRAL. 


40 


Richard Fitzalan, Earl of Arundel, beheaded for high treason in 
1397. This tomb was opened by order of Richard II. shortly 
after the earl’s interment, because the common people believed 
that a miracle had been wrought, and that his head had grown 
to his body again. 

A Chantry, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, occupies 
the end of the aisle. Here there is a stately Decorated tomb, 
with effigy, of a nameless lady, supposed by some authorities to 
be Maud, countess of Arundel, and pronounced by Flaxman the 
finest in England. 

iHF Memorials in the Nave. —The Hon. William Huskis- 
son, d. 1830, the statue by Carew ; Collins, the poet, d. 1756, 
the medallion by Flaxman. The poet is pictured as studying 
the Scriptures. “ I have but one book,” he said to Dr. Johnson 
shortly before his death, “ and that is the best.” At his feet lies 
a volume of “ The Passions.” Two female figures, Love and 
Religion, are placed upon the pediment, and underneath is let¬ 
tered an epitaph by Hayley and Sargent,— 

“ Ye who the merits of the dead revere, 

Who hold misfortune’s sacred genius dear, 

Regard this tomb ; where Collins’ hapless name 
Solicits kindness with a double claim. 

Strangers to him, enamour’d of his lays, 

This fond memorial to his talents raise. 

• For this the ashes of the bard require, 

Who touch’d the tenderest notes of Pity’s Lyre.” 

The monuments (in the south aisle) of Jane Smith and Agnes 
Cromwell, are also Flaxman’s handiwork. The memorial window, 
representing the martyrdom of St. Stephen, is by Wailes. 

The Choir, and the east aisles behind it, were built by 
Bishop Seffrid. The latter are Transition Norman in style, and 
exhibit the gradual change from the circular to the pointed arch. 
Observe the grotesque bones in which the vaulting ribs terminate. 
It is difficult to imagine what object the sculptor could have had 
in view when he carved those monstrous human faces. Was it 
satirical ? Did any of his contemporaries trace a likeness to certain 
living notabilities in those exaggerated lineaments ? Behind the 
altar-screen stand the monuments of Bishop Stone, d. 1503 ; 
Bishop Henry King (1641-69), poet and prelate ; Bishop Grove, 
d. 1596 ; and Bishop Carlton, d. 1705. A purbeck slab, in 
the pavement, is figured with two hands holding up a heart, 

E 


50 


CHICHESTER. 


and inscribed “ Ici git le coeur de Maud.” The rest is illegible. 
The tomb of Bishop Day, d. 1556, is on the right. 

The Screen which separates choir and nave was erected by 
Bishop Arundel (1458-78), and is known as his “ Oratory.” A 
nicked arcade surmounts these arches, which are enriched with 
quatrefoils in their spandrils. The stalls in the choir, the altar- 
screen, and the decorations of the south transept, were the gift of 
Bishop Sherbourne, and justify old Fuller’s quaint eulogy :— 
“ Now though Seffride bestowed the cloth and making on the 
church, Bishop Sherbourne gave the trimming and best lace 
thereto.” 

The North Transept forms the parish church of St. Peter 
the Great, more commonly called the Sub-Deanery. The South 
Transept was lengthened, and its beautiful window inserted, 
by Bishop Langton (1305-38), but the Roundhead troopers 
destroyed the stained glass. The Bishop’s tomb, considerably 
defaced, stands beneath it, and close at hand, the memorial of 
John Smith, Esq. of Dale Park. The tomb near the choir is con¬ 
sidered to be that of Bishop Richard de la Wych, d. 1253, the 
last Englishman who received “ the honour ” of canonization. In 
the Acta Sanctorum may be read, in considerable detail, the 
miracles wrought by St. Richard of Chichester. The tomb was 
restored by Richardson in 1847, and the small figures in the 
arches are entirely his handiwork. Hither the devout pilgrims 
of Kent, Sussex, and Hampshire were wont to repair, and. lay 
their offerings, and branches plucked on the road, on the shrine 
of the Sussex saint. 

The figures of the Bishops of Selsey and Chichester which 
enrich the walls were Bishop Sherbourne’s donation to his 
Cathedral. From the “ family-likeness ” between them, one 
would imagine that they respresent a succession of great grand¬ 
fathers, fathers, and sons, all of the same remarkable race. The 
English sovereigns are presented on the opposite wall, and above 
them a picture, in two panels, represents Cadwalla bestowing 
Selsey upon St. Wilfrid, and Henry YIH. confir min g the grant to 
Bishop Sherbourne. Cadwalla is a portrait of Henry VII., and 
all the kings, nobles, and ecclesiastics introduced are costumed 
in the Tudor style. A Flemish artist, Theodore Bernardi, and 
his sons were the artists employed by Bishop Sherbourne. 

The railed-off portion of the transept is now made use of as 
an ecclesiastical court. The old consistory (Perpendicular in 


LADY CHAPEL-CHAPTER LIBRARY. 


51 


style) was a room over the porch, to which access was obtained 
by a spiral staircase in the nave. It opened upon the Lollards’ 
Prison through a sliding panel. 

A very curious oaken chest, 8 feet long, preserved in the 
Sacristy ; and two carved slabs (discovered in 1829) which 
represent the Raising of Lazarus, and Martha and Mary meeting 
the Saviour, are supposed to have been removed from Selsey. 
Near these sculptures stands the tomb of Bishop Sherboume, d. 
1536, restored at the expense of New College, Oxon, to which 
foundation the prelate had intrusted its custody. 

At the extreme east end of the Cathedral is the Lady Chapel, 
built by Bishop de St. Lespard (1288-1305), at an expense of 
1250 marks. It is now little better than a mortuary chapel for 
the Duke of Richmond’s family. A slab is inscribed “ DOMUS 
ULTIMA, 1750,”—an inscription which suggested to Dr. Clarke, 
one of the residentiaries, the following bitter epigram :— 

“ Did he who thus inscribed this wall, 

Not read, or not believe, St. Paul, 

Who says there is, where’er it stands, 

Another house , not built with hands ? 

Or may we gather from these words 
That house is not a house—for Lords?” 

Under two arches in the passage which leads to the Lady 
Chapel, is placed the black marble slab inscribed to Bishop Ralph, 
d. 1325. 

The large canopied tomb in the north aisle is that of Bishop 
Moleynes, a faithful adherent of the Lancasterian party, murdered 
at Portsmouth in 1449. 

The Chapter Library, with its rare MSS., printed books, and 
relics, is preserved in the Lady Chapel. Among the relics are a 
silver chalice and paten, an agate thumb-ring (or Basilidian gem) 
inscribed with a Gnostic talisman, two other rings, and a leaden 
cross, discovered in 1829 in the stone coffins of two prelates, who 
are supposed to have been Godfrey , the second bishop of Chiches¬ 
ter, d. 1091, and Bishop Seffrid II., d. 1205. 

From the south aisle we pass into the quiet Cloisters (Per¬ 
pendicular), which afford some fine views of the general charac¬ 
teristics of the Cathedral. The space they enclose is called 
“Paradise.” The Spire* (dating from 1337) was 270 feet from the 

* This beautiful structure has lately fallen into ruins, and a fund is 
being raised to provide for its restoration—(May 1861). 


52 


CHICHESTER. 


ground, and so resembled that of Salisbury that the local saying 
ran,—“ The master-mason built Salisbury, and his man built 
Chichester.” Mr. Truman, in an able paper on the architecture 
of the Cathedral, to which the tourist may with advantage refer 
( Sus. Arch. Coll., vol. i.), points out that in these Cathedrals alone 
there is “ a visible centre and axis to the whole building, viz., the 
summit of the spire, and a line let fall from it to the ground. 
Salisbury was so constructed at first. Chichester was made exactly 
central, to an inch, by the additions of the Lady Chapel and west 
porch. Michael Angelo’s most perfect outline, the pyramidal, is 
thus gained. The eye is carried upward to the spire point from 
the chapels clustering at the base, along the roof of pinnacles.” 
Detached from the building, on the north side, rises the campanile 
or bell-tower, 120 feet high. It has four turrets at its summit, 
exactly similar to those at the base of the spire, whence it has 
been conjectured that it was built (at the same period) to receive 
the bells from the old tower. The stone made use of was quar¬ 
ried near Yentnor, in the Isle of Wight. 


DIMENSIONS OP THE CATHEDRAL. 



Length in feet. 

Breadth in feet. 

Height in feet. 

Nave 

156 

919 

62-3 

Choir 

105 

59 

60 

Presbytery 

52 2 

• •• 

• • • 

Lady Chapel 

62-9 

207 

22 

Spire 

• • • 

• • • 

271 

South-west tower 

• • • 

• • • 

95 

Transept 

131 

243 

• • • 

Campanile 

• • • • • • 

Total length 380 feet. 

120 


The Cathedral establishment includes a dean, four canons, five 
minor canons, seven lay vicars, ten choristers, and four Wyke- 
kamical prebends. The average yearly income is £5,100. 

Among the more notable bishops may be named—Ralph de 
Neville, Lord Chancellor, 1222 : 45 ; Richard de la Wych, or St. 
Richard, 1245-53 ; Adam Moleynes, Henry YI.’s councillor, 
1445-9 ; Lancelot Andrewes, the sycophantic favourite of James 
I., 1605-9 ; Brian Duppa, 1638-41 ; and Francis Hare, the 
adversary of Hoadley, in the famous Bangorian controversy 
1731-40. 


PAROCHIAL CHURCHES. 


53 


The Episcopal Palace is situated to the west of the cathe¬ 
dral, and consists of a spacious mansion whose two wings are con¬ 
nected by an open corridor. The Chapel is of the age of Henry 
III., with windows of a later date. Remark the timber ceiling 
of Bishop Sherbourne’s Refectory, painted in compartments with 
scrolls and armorial bearings by the Bernardis. 

The Market Cross, at the point of junction of the four great 
Cistercian thoroughfares, was built by Bishop Storey about 1480, 
and considerably defaced by Waller’s troopers. The dial was 
given, in 1724, by Dame Elizabeth Farrington. “Its vaulted 
roof is supported by a thick central pillar, and by a series of 
arches octagonal in form, and highly ornamented with coats of 
arms and other ornaments.” It is altogether an interesting and a 
picturesque structure, which the townsmen keep in excellent repair. 

The Town Hall, situated in the priory park, near the end 
of North Street, was formerly a chapel belonging to a monastery 
of Grey Friars. Behind the magistrates’ seats may be seen the 
ancient Early English sedilia. A circular mound in the garden 
was, perhaps, the Calvary of the ancient priory. 

A rapid visit to the Parochial Churches of the city must now 
be undertaken. 

St. Peter the Great is now converted into the north 
transept of the cathedral. Attached to it on the east is a chancel, 
with a low roof formed upon intersecting ribs, which have Nor¬ 
man mouldings. Within the precincts of this parish, and in the 
cathedral cloisters, lies William Chilling worth, d. 1644, the famous 
author of “ The Religion of Protestants a safe way to Salvation.” 
When his funeral procession arrived at the grave, it was met by 
his impetuous opponent, the Presbyterian Cheynell, who flung 
Chillingworth’s immortal work upon his coffin “ to rot,” he said, 
“ with its author, and see corruption !” 

All Saints’, in the Pallant, is of great antiquity. Some por¬ 
tions may be Early Norman. Hay ley, the poet, was baptized 
here, November 25, 1745. 

The church of St. Andrew, in East Street, was built temp. 
Henry VII. At a depth of 4 feet beneath it lies a Roman tesse- 
lated pavement. Collins was buried here in 1756. 

St. Martin’s, in St. Martin’s Lane, was rebuilt about forty 
years ago, in a style which may be denominated Modern Gothic. 
The east window, with its stained glass, is good. 

St. Olave’s, in North Street, recently restored, occupies the 


CHICHESTER. 


‘ 54 

site of a Roman building, and is, perhaps, the oldest Christian 
church in England. Roman bricks were employed in its con¬ 
struction, and the small door on the south side may even be of 
Roman work. 

St. Pancras’ Church stands at a small distance beyond the 
East Gate. It was nearly demolished during Waller’s siege of 
the city in 1642, and not rebuilt until 1750. St. Bartholomew’s 
was destroyed at the same time. There is nothing of interest in 
the present building. 

The Chapel, dedicated to St. John, stands on the site of the 
Black Friars’, near the East Gate. It was built in 1813 from the 
designs of James Elmes. 

[The patrons and annual incomes of these benefices are as follows :—All Saints, 
R., £45, Archbishop of Canterbury; St. Andrew, R., £80, Dean and Chapter of 
Chichester; St. Martin, R., £67, the same patrons; St. Olave, R., £56, the same ; 
St. Pancras, R., £95, Simeon’s Trustees ; St. Peter the Great, V., £110, Dean and 
Chapter; St. Peter the Less, R., £56, the Dean; St. Bartholomew, P. C., £65, the 
Dean; St. Paul’s, P. C., the Dean and Chapter; St. John’s, Trustees.] 

St. Mary’s Hospital is a picturesque Decorated pile, which 
the tourist must not fail to visit. It was founded in 1229, and 
replaced a nunnery originally established in 1173. The reve¬ 
nues are apportioned among a custos or warden, six women, and 
two men, whose rooms are constructed in the side walls of the 
Refectory or Long Hall. The Chapel, which contains some 
excellent carved work, is divided from this hall by an open oaken 
screen. The arched roof and its huge timbers, resting on low 
stone walls, deserves examination. 

Some houses in the upper part of South Street were built, it 
is said, by Wren. The Philosophical Society have their Museum 
of Local Antiquities and Natural History in this street, which 
communicates with the Cathedral Close by the Canons’ Gate, 
built by Bishop Sherbourne, whose arms are sculptured above the 
entrance. 

The Otter Memorial College (for tra inin g schoolmasters), 
founded by Bishop Otter, and erected in 1849-50, from Butler’s 
designs ; and the entrenchment on the Goodwood road, known as 
the Broyle (from bruillum , a coppice), have each a special inte¬ 
rest for different classes of tourists. 




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GLASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS. 


{Royal Route via Crinan and Caledonian Canals.) 

THE ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS- 

Iona, Chevalier, Gondolier, 

Mountaineer, Pioneer, Edinburgh, 

Clansman, Clydesdale, Cygnet, 

Mary Jane, and Inverary Castle, 

Sail during the season for Oban, Fort-William, Inverness, Staffa, Iona, 
Glencoe, Tobermory, Portree, Gairloch, Ullapool, Lochinver and Storno¬ 
way ; affording Tourists an opportunity of Visiting the Magnificent 
Scenery of Glencoe, the Coolin Hills, Loch Coruisk, Loch Maree, and 
the famed islands of Staffa and Iona. 

*** These vessels afford in their passage a view of the beautiful scenery of the Clyde, 
with all its Watering-Places—the Island and Kyles of Bute—Island of Arran—Moun¬ 
tains of Cowal, Knapdale, and Kintyre—Lochfyne—Crinan—with the Islands of Jura, 
Scarba, Mull, and many others of the Western Sea—the Whirlpool of Corryvreckan— 
the Mountains of Lorn, of Morven, of Appin, of Kingairloch, and Ben Nevis—Inver- 
lochy—the Lands of Lochiel, the scene of the wanderings of Prince Charles, and near 
to where the Clans raised his Standard in the ’45—Lochaber—the Caledonian Canal— 
Loch Lochy—Loch Oich—Loch Ness, with the Glens and Mountains on either side, and 
the celebrated FALLS OF FOYERS. Books descriptive of the route may be had on 
board the Steamers. 

Time-Bills, with Maps, sent post free on application to the Proprietors, David 
Hutcheson and Co., 119 Hope Street, Glasgow. 

Glasgow, 1867. 


Staffa, 

Linnet, 

Plover, 









9 


black’s guide-book advertiser. 

ABERDEEN. 


DOUGLAS HOTEL, 

(.Purveyor by appointment to Iler Majesty the Queen , the late Prince 

Albert , and the Royal Family). 

'NOTICE TO THE PUBLIC. 

P AKTIES travelling from South to North, and vice versa , will find 
DOUGLAS’ HOTEL the only one situated close to either of the Railway Stations 
(all the other Hotels being a considerable distance off), so that travellers can arrive at 
and depart from the Douglas Hotel with the greatest facility, at a considerable saving 
of expense for porterage and conveyances, as an Omnibus with attendants, in connec¬ 
tion with the Hotel, for the accommodation of passengers, direct to and from either of 
the Railway Stations, will be waiting the arrival of the different trains, of which travel¬ 
lers will find it greatly to their advantage to avail themselves. 

T. D. begs to intimate that he has lately made a large addition to his present pre¬ 
mises, and will now have increased accommodation for Private Families and others 
visiting the Hotel, where every effort will be made to make them comfortable. 

T. D. has also to state, that by special request he has fitted up an Elegant Room for 
the accommodation of Commercial Gentlemen only, and from unremitted assiduity on 
his part to make them comfortable, he trusts they will kindly give him a share of their 
patronage and support. 

Breakfasts, Soups, Dinners, &c., &c., are always in readiness on arrival of the 
Trains, whereby travellers are enabled to partake of refreshments previous to the de¬ 
parture of the different trains either South or North. 

Charges very Moderate. 

THOMAS DOUGLAS, Proprietor. 


BREADALBANE ARMS HOTEL, 

ABEEFELDY, 

{One Minute's Walk from the Railway Station ), 

C ONTAINING First-Class Accommodation, is beautifully situated 
in the County of Perth, close the splendid Falls of Moness, Taymouth 
Castle, and the unrivalled scenery of Glenlyon. 

Parties leaving Edinburgh or Glasgow in the morning, and arriving in 
Aberfeldy by first train, can enjoy a two hours’ drive through the finest 
scenery in the Highlands (including Pass of Glenlyon, Taymouth Castle and 
grounds from “ the Fort”), and return south by last train. 

Coaches to and from Killin, Callander, and Loch Lomond, daily during 
the season. 

Tourists desirous of proceeding by these coaches, “ to secure seats,” 
ought to pass the previous night at this Hotel, from where alone the coaches 
start. 

Orders for Horses and Conveyances punctually attended to. 

The Hotel Puis awaits the arrival of all the trains. 

Abekfeldy, 10 th March 1867. 



HOTELS-BLAIR-ATIIOLE-BLAIRGOWRIE. 


3 


BLAIR-ATHOLS, PERTHSHIRE. 

THE ATHOLE ARMS HOTEL, 

AT THE RAILWAY STATION; AND 

BRIDGE OF TILT PRIVATE HOTEL. 

MALCOLM MTAKLANE. 

BALLACHULISH—LOCHLEVEN HOTEL. 

J. CAMERON. 

T HIS Hotel is delightfully situated ou the banks of Lochleven, near Glencoe, and 
commands the best view of the finest mountain-scenery in Scotland. The entrance 
to the Glen is beautifully seen from the windows. The Hotel has been much enlarged 
and modernised. The Bedrooms are airy and commodious, and fitted up in the newest 
style ; and Tourists may rely on finding superior accommodation at moderate charges. 
Posting carried on in all its departments, and boats always ready for visiting the 
romantic reaches of the adjoining lochs. A new road has been opened up to the head 
of Lochleven, which is one of the finest drives in this part of the Highlands, affording 
an excellent view of the Serpent river and the beautiful cascade at the head of the 
Loch. Parties stopping at this Hotel may get themselves booked for Glasgow by coach 
over the Black Mount daily, at half-past eight a.m., during the tourist season, while 
steamers call daily at the new pier. 

Ballachulish. 

BLAIRGOWRIE. 

QUEEN’S HOTEL. 

ESTABLISHED UPWARDS OF FORTY YEARS. 

P ARTIES visiting Blairgowrie will find in the Queen’s Hotel every comfort and 
attention It is on the shortest and most direct route to Balmoral Castle and 
scenery of the Dee. Superior Post-Horses. Carriages of every description, and careful 
drivers An Omnibus awaits the arrival and departure of the trains. 

D. M'DONALD, Proprietor. 

TO ANGLERS, TOURISTS, &c. 

SALMON ROD-FISHINGS ON THE RIVER AWE. 

J AMES MtfRRAY, Taynuilt Hotel, Bonaw, Argyleshire (situated at the foot of 
Ben Cruachan and near to Lochawe), begs to intimate that parties staying at his 
Hotel, which has been improved and enlarged, can have fishing on the celebrated River 
Awe, by the week or as agreed to. 

BOATS FOR FISHING ON LOCH ETIVE. 

POST HORSES, CARRIAGES, &c|. 








4 


black’s guide-book advertiser. 


CALLANDER. 

DREADNOUGHT HOTEL. 

D. M'GOWAN, Proprietor. 

P ARTIES frequenting this large and old-established Hotel, which was so long con¬ 
ducted by the late Mr. Macgregor, and which has recently undergone many and 
extensive improvements, will find every comfort and attention, and charges strictly 
moderate. 

The well-known Coaches in connection with the Hotel run to and from the Tros- 
sachs, Loch Katrine, Lochearnhead, Killin, Kenmore, Aberfeldy, &c. 

A Table d’Hote daily at 3 p.m. 

Posting in all its departments complete. 

Carriages wait the Arrival and Departure of all Trains. 

Letters carefully attended to. 


NATIONAL HO 

DINGWALL. 

JOHN SINCLAIR, Proprietor. 

HE above large and commodious Hotel is beautifully situated 
near to the Railway Station, and within five miles of the far-famed 
Strathpeffer Wells. The splendid Tourist Coaches Defiance and 
Wellington leave the National Hotel every lawful morning direct for 
Skye, Lochmaree, and Gairloch. The above Coaches, which are well 
horsed, have no connection with Mail Gigs, and are the only Coaches 
having any connection with Lochmaree, Gairloch, and Ullapool. 

Families would do well to secure seats beforehand. The scenery on 
this route is well known to be by far the finest in Scotland. 

Parties leaving Glasgow or Edinburgh in the morning can be in Ding¬ 
wall same evening. 

Carriages, Waggonettes, &c., kept for hire or job. 

Letters for rooms, coach-seats, or conveyances, punctually attended to. 



TEL 


WELLINGTON HOTEL, DUNOON. 

M R. THOMAS RAMSAY and Mrs. RAMSAY return thanks to their Friends and all 
classes of the community for the measure of support and public patronage they 
have received since the opening of their establishment, five years ago ; and they beg 
respectfully to inform Tourists, Travellers, Private Families visiting Dunoon, and the 
Public generally, that the business of the Hotel is conducted, as hitherto, in the most 
efficient manner, and in regard to comfort, convenience, and superior accommodation, 
is second to none on the coast. 

The Hotel is within seven minutes’ walk from the pier, and three minutes’ walk from 
the beautiful West Bay, and is situated near Wellington Place, Auchamore Road, and 
commands a magnificent view of the Firth of Clyde, from Gourock to the Cumbrae Isles, 
and surrounding district. Wines, Spirits, and Malt Liquors, and all kinds of Beverages, 
of the finest quality and at moderate charges. Breakfasts, Luncheons, Dinners, and 
Refreshments, etc., prepared on the shortest notice being given to Mrs. Ramsay. 




HOTELS-DUNKELD-EDINBURGH. 


5 


DUNKELD. 

FISHER’S ROYAL HOTEL. 

T HIS Hotel, one of the largest in the Highlands of Scotland, has been 
established for nearly half-a-century, during which time it has been 
patronised by various of the Royal Families of the Continent, and by the 
greater number of the Nobility and Gentry of the United Kingdom. It is 
well known as a first-class House, in which every attention is paid to the 
comfort, convenience, and amusement of the Tourist. The apartments, 
both public and private, are large, elegantly furnished, scrupulously clean, 
and well-aired. This Hotel is not only conveniently situated for visiting 
the Duke of Athole’s Pleasure-Grounds, the ancient Cathedral, the Her¬ 
mitage, the Rumbling Bridge, and the splendid lake and mountain scenery 
of the more immediate neighbourhood of Dunkeld, but also for making 
excursions to the Pass of Killiecrankie, the Loch and Falls of the Tummel, 
the Falls of the Bruar, Blair Castle, the Birks of Aberfekly, Loch Tay, 
Taymouth Castle. The Coach to Braemar and Balmoral will start about 
the middle of July. Job and Post Horses by Day, Week, or Month. 
Carriages of every description. Omnibuses to meet each Train. Charges 
moderate, and attendance charged in the bill. 

Dunkeld, 1s£ May 1867. 


HOTEL FRANCAIS, EDINBURGH. 

C DE JAY’S First-Class HOTEL, 99, 100, and 101 Princes Street, 

• Edinburgh, patronised by the Nobility, is situated in the most pleasant and 
central part of the Metropolis, overlooking West Princes Street Garden, and directly 
opposite the Castle. A considerable addition has lately been made to the Hotel, 
embracing numerous Parlours, Bedrooms, and Private Suites of Apartments ; and the 
whole house, which is lofty and airy, has been entirely repainted and decorated, and 
furnished in the most elegant and substantial style. The Culinary Department is under 
the personal superintendence of M. Dejay, whose thorough practical experience as a 
chef cle cuisine is well known, and will be a sufficient guarantee for efficiency. Au parle 
Franqais. Charges strictly moderate. 

LADIES’ COFFEE-ROOM. 

Table, d'Hote , and Dinners d la carte. 


THE CLARENDON HOTEL, 

103, 104, 105 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. 


At this First-class Family Hotel will be found 

Handsome Suites of Rooms looking into the Gardens. 

Also, a HANDSOME SELECT COF.FEE-ROOM, 
with all the quiet and comfort of a home. 

Charges strictly Moderate. 





G 


black’s GUTDE-BOOIv advertiser. 



EDINBURGH. 

PHILP’S GOCKBURN HOTEL, 


Immediately adjoining the Terminus of the Great Northern Trains. 

T HIS commodious and well-appointed Hotel is beautifully situated, 
overlooking Princes Street Gardens, and commanding some of 
tlie finest views in the city. 

A large elegantly-furnished Saloon for parties with Ladies, free 
of charge ; Private Suites of Apartments, Bath-Looms, Coffee and 
Smoking Booms, and every accommodation for Gentlemen. 

Charges, including Attendance, Strictly Moderate. 

A. PHILP (late of the Albion), Proprietor. 

P.S. —Mr. Cook (of Leicester) makes this house his head-quarters 
when in Scotland, where every information may be obtained of his 
tourist arrangements. Tourist and Excursion Office next door. 














































TIOTr.LS-EDINBURCn 



THE EOYAL HOTEL, 


(MACGEEGOE’S, late GIBB’S), 

53 PRINCES STREET, 

Established upwards of Fifty years, 

Opposite the Scott Monument, and commanding the best views 
of the : Gardens, Castle, Arthur Seat, etc., with a Frontage of 
220 feet to Princes Street,—one of the finest in Europe. 


D ONALD MACGREGOR begs respectfully to acquaint tlie Nobility, 
Gentry, and Tourists, that he has further extended and decorated the 
above first-class Hotel, rendering it now one of the largest in. Scotland. 

The Royal Hotel is unsurpassed for extent of accommodation and elegant 
furnishings, and has a Suite of Superb Drawing and Dining Rooms for 
Ladies. Visitors may at all times depend on receiving comfortable and 
superior accommodation, combined with moderate charges. 

Table d’JIote daily. 

N.B .—To prevent mistakes, parties intending to visit the Royal Hotel 
are cautioned to see they are taken there. The Hotel is about 100 yards 
from the General Railway Termini. 

A Night Porter in attendance. 












































































































































































black’s guide-book advertiser. 


EDINBURGH. 

WATERLOO HOTEL. 



RAMPLING'S WATERLOO HOTEL, 


WATERLOO PLACE, 

Nearly opposite the General Post-Office. 


COMMODIOUS AND ELEGANT COFFEE-ROOMS. 

LARGE AND WELL-VENTILATED SMOKING-ROOMS. 

Suites of Apartments, &c. 


Strangers and others visiting Edinburgh will find that, for Situation, Comfort, and 
Accommodation, combined with Moderate Charges, this Elegant and Extensive Estab¬ 
lishment (which was built expressly for a Hotel at an expense of upwards of £30,000) 
is unequalled in the City. The Wines and Cuisine are of the first quality. 

A Spacious Saloon for Families who wish to avoid the expense of Private Sitting-rooms. 

A Moderate Fixed Charge for Servants. 

N.B .—To prevent mistakes, parties who intend visiting the Waterloo Hotel are 
cautioned to be careful that cabmen and porters do not take them elsewhere, it having- 
caused many parties great annoyance. A Night Porter in attendance. 
















































































































HOTELS-EDINBURGH. 


9 


THE DOUGLAS HOTEL, 

EDINBURGH. 

THOMAS SLANEY, Proprietor. 


This Hotel, long patronised by the first families of Europe, has 
been considerably enlarged, and contains every comfort which a 
matured experience could suggest, with all the necessary appliances 
for the quiet and prompt management of so large an establishment. 

The Great Saloon is considered the finest room in any Hotel 
in the kingdom, and is available to those desirous of avoiding the 
expense of private apartments. 

The Cuisine and Wines are Unexceptionable. 

Table dilute Daily. Dinners d la Carte. 

Charges as moderate as those of Minor Establishments. 


THE BALMORAL HOTEL 

(Late MACKAY’S), 

91 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. 

(Adjoining the New Club.) 

rjiHIS Old Established HOTEL, occupying one of the finest positions in Edinburgh, 
L has recently been much beautified. Its public rooms have been fitted with Oriel 
windows, and the views of the Castle and Gardens to be had from them cannot be 
surpassed. 

Families and Gentlemen will find first-class accommodation combined with mode¬ 
rate charges. 

Coffee, Smoking, and Bath Rooms. 

D. PROVEN, Proprietor. 


ALMA HOTEL, 

112, 113, AND 114 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH. 

(Opposite the Castle.) 

A ADDISON, Proprietor of the above well-known and comfortable Hotel, in return- 
• ing thanks to his numerous friends for past favours, and, at the same time, 
soliciting a continuance of their patronage, begs to inform them that he has just 
opened a new addition to this Hotel, which he has fitted up in a very superior style. 
The accommodation consists of large and small apartments, handsomely furnished, 
single Bed-rooms and Sitting-Rooms, all of which are light and airy. Large handsome 
Dining-Room, Smoking and Bath Rooms. The Establishment is arranged so as to 
combine quiet, comfort, and convenience throughout the whole. 

Charges Strictly Moderate. 






ANDREW FAMILY HOTEL 


JpyiiJI 

COMMERCIAL 


H OTEL 


'c r AN DREW 


« A I L *AY_ 


10 black’s guide-book advertiser. 

£3T Important to Tourists, Families , and Commercial Gentlemen visiting Edinburgh. 

THE SAINT ANDREW HOTEL 


14 SAINT ANDREW STREET, EDINBURGH, 

Is situated in the finest part of the City. Its proximity to the Railway 
Termini, Banks, Post-Office, and objects of interest, makes it the most cen¬ 
tral and convenient residence for Visitors, whether on business or pleasure. 

Plain Breakfast or Tea, Is. Bed, Is. 6d. Servants, 9d. 

Conducted on Temperance Principles. 

TESTIMONIALS. 

From Sir Wilfrid Lawson, Bart., Brayton. 

Having spent a few nights with my family in the Saint Andrew Temperance Hotel, 
Edinburgh, I have great pleasure in bearing my testimony to the excellence of the ac¬ 
commodation in all respects. 

From the Rev. Dr. M'Kerrow of Manchester. 

The Saint Andrew Hotel, Edinburgh, is one of the best which I have visited. 

From Hugh Barclay, Esq., LL.D., Sheriff-Substitute, Perthshire. 

The character and comforts of the Saint Andrew Hotel are of the highest order. 

From the Rev. Alex. Wallace of Glasgow. 

I can speak from experience of the home character of the Saint Andrew Hotel. 

From the Rev. Dr. Kerr of Pittsburgh, U.S., and the Rev. R. D. Harper, Xenia, Ohio. 

Mr. Duncan M'Laren—We have not spent any time more pleasantly than the two 
weeks we passed under your roof, and when we return to our native land we will re¬ 
commend the Saint Andrew Hotel as a home to American friends visiting Edinburgh. 

From Messrs. Fowler and Wells, Professors of Phrenology, New York. 

Where to * Live’ in Edinburqh. —We most cordially recommend our friends to the 
quiet, clean, commodious, and home-like Saint Andrew Hotel; so nicely situated, so 
central, and so convenient to all the railway stations, and where every want will be 
anticipated and promptly supplied. 

From the ‘Alliance News.’ 

The Saint Andrew Hotel has increased in size, comfort, and elegance, until it can 
now rank as one of the best Temperance Hotels in the Kingdom. 

DUNCAN M'LAREN, Proprietor. 















































































































HOTELS-EDINBURGH, 


11 


WAVERLEY HOTELS, 



SCOTT MONUMENT. 


WAVERLEY HOTEL, 

185 BUCHANAN STREET, GLASGOW. 

Plain Breakfast or Tea, Is. Bedroom, Is. 6d. Service, 9d. 

Recommended by Bradshaw's Tourist’s Guide as the cheapest and best 
they had ever seen. ^ It. CRANSTON, Proprietor. 




















































12 


black’s guide-book ADVERTISER. 


DARLING’S TEMPERANCE HOTEL,' 

20 WATERLOO PLACE, EDINBURGH. 

Nearly opposite the General Post-Office. 

Situated in the Principal Street of the City, in the immediate vici¬ 
nity of the Calton Hill and Public Buildings. Large comfortable 
Coffee-Room for parties with Ladies, free of charge. Also Private 
Parlours, commanding a fine view of Salisbury Crags and the Top 
of Arthur Seat. 


FISHING TACKLE. 

Gentlemen visiting Edinburgh will find a first-class Assortment of 

Salmon and Trout Rods, Reels, Lines, Flies, &c. 

Suited for the Scottish Lakes and Rivers, at 

PHIhTS FISHING-TACKLE WAREHOUSE, 

80b Princes Street, First Door up Stairs. 

All of Best Material and Workmanship, and at Moderate Prices. 

Established upwards of Fifty Years. 

Observe—80 PRINCES STREET, next the Life Association new building. 

A. & G. WILSON^ 

FISHING-TACKLE MAKERS, 

19 WATERLOO PLACE, EDINBURGH. 

A. and G. W. respectfully call the attention of Noblemen and Gentlemen to their 
present extensive stock, which will be found replete with every article in the line. 
Flies dressed to order. Bait of all descriptions. Cases fitted up on a few hours’ notice 
with every requisite for the various localities to which Gentlemen may be pro¬ 
ceeding. Their long experience enables them to give every information. An early 
call requested. 

Observe the Address — 

ANGLERS’ RESORT, 19 Waterloo Place. 

DEALERS IN LIVE BIRDS—FOREIGN AND BRITISH. 


SCOTT’S POETICAL WORKS. 


1. 

2 . 
3. 


TOURISTS’ EDITIONS. 

The only Copyright Editions published. 

Price Is. fid. each. 


Lady of the Lake. 

Mann ion. 

Lay of the Last Minstrel. 


4. Lord of the Isles. 

5. Rokeby. 

6. Bridal of Triermain. 


The above in Morocco, price 2s. 6d. each. 

Handy Edition, in 12mo, extra cloth, gilt edges, with portrait and IS Woodcuts, price 5s. 


EDINBURGH : ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK. 







HOTELS-ENGLISH LAKES, ETC. 


13 


ULLSWATER LAKE HOTEL, 

PATTERDALE. 

Patronised by H.R.II. Prince Arthur and Suite. 

This delightfully situated Hotel, built by the Proprietor expressly for a Lakeside Hotel, 
supplying a want which has long been required by Tourists visiting Patterdale, anti 
within a few yards of the Steamboat Landing, there being no other Hotel within about 
mile. This Establishment contains a magnificent Ladies’ Coffee-Room, and eleven Private 
Sitting-Rooms, and every accommodation required in a First-class Hotel. Parties stay¬ 
ing at this Hotel have the privilege of Fishing upon Ullswater and Brotherswater free 
of charge. Carriages and Cars kept at the Troutbeck Station, and Coaches from the 
12.45 and 6.20 p.m. trains ; and from this Hotel to all parts of the district. 

R. BOWNASS. 


BROUNRIGG’S 

ULLSWATER LAKE HEAD HOTEL, PATTERDALE. 

Situation beautiful, central, and convenient for Poad, Lake, and Mountain. 
Under the immediate patronage of the Royal Families of England and 
Russia, and the Principal Nobility. 

Visitors to the English Lake District should make their central head-quarters at 
Brounrigg’s Ullsivater Lake Head Hotel, Patterdale, where they will not fail to find 
every comfort and convenience. 

“ We* - give it our strongest word of commendation.” —The London Advertiser , the 
West London Times, the London Examiner, the British Jottrnal Newspapers. 

ROBERT BROUNRIGG, Proprietor —( Many years with Mr. Batho, London Tavern). 
'Coaches leave the Hotel daily for Keswick and Windermere. 


CLIFTON DOWN HOTEL. 


rriHIS HOTEL was opened to the Public on 24th July 1865. 

The Hotel lias been erected at a large outlay, and contains 
spacious Coffee-Rooms, both for Ladies and Gentlemen, and all 
the appointments found in first-class establishments. The 
situation of the Hotel is unrivalled, and is in the immediate 
vicinity of the Suspension Bridge, which is seen from the 
windows. The charges are fixed and moderate. 


Manager, Mr. CHARLES LEAL. 

Clifton Hotel Company , Limited . 





14 


black’s guide-book advertiser. 



THE CLARENCE HOTEL, 

GEORGE SQUARE, GLASGOW. 

J OHN M'GREGOR, Proprietor, has much pleasure in announcing to his Friends and 
the Travelling Public that he has completed his extensive alterations, having added 
the Globe Hotel to his former Premises. The. whole Establishment having been Re- 
Furnished and Fitted up in a superior manner, the “ CLARENCE” now will rank as one 
of the first Houses in the city. 

The Ladies’ Coffee-Rooms and Private Sitting-Rooms are unsurpassed for comfort. 
The Gentlemen’s Billiard and Coffee Rooms are the most complete of the kind. 

Tourists and Commercial Gentlemen will find every comfort and attention. 

Charges Strictly Moderate. 


AMBLESIDE. 

THE QUEEN’S HOTEL 

(John Brown, Proprietor ), 

IS THE ONLY HOTEL IN AMBLESIDE THAT COMMANDS A VIEW OF 

WINDERMERE LAKE. 

T HIS extensive and excellent new Hotel is fitted up with all the modern improve¬ 
ments suitable for carrying on an extensive business. Sitting and Bed Rooms are 
large and airy, and it is the only Hotel in Ambleside with Hot, Cold, and Shower 
Baths. 

The view from the Sitting and Bed Rooms cannot be equalled. The Ladies’ Coffee- 
Room is the largest and handsomest in Ambleside, and commands views of Winder- 
mere Lake ; the Valley of Ambleside, with its beautiful Church; the Knoll, the residence 
of Miss Harriet Martineau; Fox How, the residence of the late Dr. Arnold; Rydal 
Mount, the residence of the late poet Wordsworth ; Gilbertscar, Loughrigg Fell, Knab, 
Scar, Rydal Head, Fairfield, Scandale Fell, etc. 

The Proprietor will feel obliged to families and Tourists visiting Ambleside to in¬ 
spect his Hotel before making choice where they should stay, feeling confident nothing 
will be wanting on his part to insure their comfort if they should patronise his estab¬ 
lishment, where they will find all the comforts of home combined with economical 
charges. 

Every information given to parties seeking Private Lodgings. 

POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. 
































HOTELS-HEREFORDSHIRE. 


15 


THE BANKS OF THE WYE. 


TOURISTS and FAMILIES travelling to and from SOUTH WALES 
will find very Superior Accommodation, combined with 

Moderate Charges, at 

THE ROYAL HOTEL, 

ROSS, HEREFORDSHIRE, 

Adjoining the, far-famed “ Man of Ross Prospect ,” and commanding exten¬ 
sive vieivs of the Wye and its enchanting Scenery. 

ts- This Hotel is now the property of a Company. It has a Lady 
Manager, and a reduced tariff of Charges. 

It is within a convenient distance of Goodrich Court and 
Castle, Symond’s Yat, Tintern Abbey, Wyndcliffe, Ragland 
Castle, &c. 

There is excellent Fishing , free from charge, close to the tovm. 

FAMILIES BOARDED FOR LONG OR SHORT PERIODS. 

POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. 

PLEASURE-BOATS FOR EXCURSIONS ON THE WYE. 

FLIES AND OMNIBUSES MEET EVERY TRAIN. 


Ross is the “ The Gate of the Wye,” and for the beauty and variety of 
the scenery on its hanks, there is no river in England at all comparable with 
it; nor do we believe (notwithstanding the superiority of some of them in 
point of size) that there is a single river on the Continent of Europe that can 
boast such scenes of grandeur, gracefulness, and pastoral beauty. Its ro¬ 
mantic beauties, whether where it glides majestically along the rich plains 
of Herefordshire—through orchards, meadows, cornfields, and villages—or, 
deep in its channel, runs between lofty rocks, clothed with hanging woods, 
and crowned at intervals with antique ruins of castellated and monastic edi¬ 
fices, yielding a panoramic succession of exquisite landscapes, have fur¬ 
nished many subjects for the poet and the painter, and cannot fail to charm 
every lover of nature. 




black’s guide-book advertiser. 




MACLEAN’S HOTEL, 

198 ST. VINCENT STREET, GLASGOW. 


(CORNER OF WEST CAMPBELL STREET.) 

M R. MACLEAN has the honour to announce that the New Premises 198 St. Vincent 
Street, Glasgow, specially erected, fitted up, and furnished for the business of a 
First-Class Hotel, are now complete in every department. 

Maclean’s Hotel is situated in a pleasant and fashionable district of the city, and in 
immediate proximity to the Exchange, all the Banks, and principal places of business. 
It is only a few minutes’ drive from the several Railway Termini and Steamboat Quays ; 
in short, it is of easy access to almost every place of importance in the city. 

The elevated locality, and the superiority of the streets and buildings in the neigh¬ 
bourhood, render the hotel, in point of amenity, peculiarly salubrious, healthy, and 
agreeable. It is thus entirely free from the continual noise and dust inseparable from 
all leading thoroughfares of a great city. 

Great care and the ripest experience have been bestowed upon the construction, 
arrangement, and furnishing of the various departments. The bed-rooms are large, 
agreeably ventilated, and in every detail comfortable. Apartments have also been 
formed en suite replete with all family conveniences. 

The general Dining-room is without exception the most spacious and elegant in the 
West of Scotland. The Ladies’ and the Gentlemen’s Coffee-rooms and the Parlours are 
in every respect suitable, combining comfort with luxury. The Billiard and Smoking 
Saloons have been specially planned and adapted for these respective purposes. 

From the long and extensive experience of Mr. and Mrs. Maclean, it is almost 
superfluous to mention that the Cellar, the Larder, the Cuisine, and the general manage¬ 
ment of the Hotel will be found superior, and perfected to the requirements of an 
establishment of the highest class. 

Glasgow, 198 St. Vincent Street, May 1S67. 








































MUTUAL LIFE ASSURANCE. 


THE 

Srottisi) Ifro&tiimt Knstituttort 

Established 1837. Incorporated 1848. 

The only Office which combines the benefit of Participa 
tion in the whole Profits with moderate Premiums. 

-- 

In THIS SOCIETY alone the Members obtain Assur¬ 
ances having right to Whole Profits, at Premiums equally 
moderate with the non-participating scale of the Pro¬ 
prietary Companies. This can be effected not only with 
safety but with ample reversion of Profits to the Policy¬ 
holders, the Society being free from the burden of 
Dividends to Shareholders. In other Offices a person 
may assure at premiums as low, but without any 
prospect of additions: Or, he may obtain the right to 
Profits, but only by payment of excessive Premiums. 

ITS ADVANTAGES, as compared with other Offices, are :— 
A greatly larger Original Assurance for the same 
Premium , and eventually , to good lives, as large 
additions as where the ordinary high rate of 
Premium is charged. 

For the same yearly sum as large an Assurance may gene¬ 
rally be secured from the first as can be looked for elsewhere 
after many years’ accumulation of Bonuses. Thus a Policy 
for £1200 or £1250 (with profits) may be had for the pre¬ 
mium usually charged to assure £1000 only. 

The WHOLE PROFITS are secured to the Policyholders 
themselves, and are divided on a system at once safe, equi¬ 
table, and peculiarly favourable to good lives. Policies for 
£1000 have thus already been increased to £1300, £1500, 
and even to £1700, to be farther augmented this year. 

Above 16,000 Policies issued. Subsisting Assurances 
£5,250,000. Annual Revenue £210,000. Realised Fund, 
arising entirely from accumulated Premiums, £1,250,000 
invested in unexceptionable securities in this country. 

[ Continued . 


Head Office, 6 St. Andrew Square, Edinburgh. 








®fjc Scottish $robfoent Institution 

Examples of Annual Premium for Assurance of £100 
at Death, with right to Whole Profits. 


Age. 

Premium. 

Age- 

Premium. 

Age. 

Premium. 

21 

£1 

16 

3 

31 

£2 

2 

6 

41 

£2 

16 

8 

22 

1 

16 

9 

32 

2 

3 

5 

42 

2 

18 

8 

23 

1 

17 

2 

33 

2 

4 

6 

43 

3 

0 

11 

24 

1 

17 

7 

34 

2 

5 

7 

44 

3 

3 

3 

25 

1 

18 

0 

35 

2 

6 

10 

45 

3 

5 

9 

26 

1 

18 

6 

36 

2 

8 

2 

46 

3 

8 

5 

27 

1 

19 

2 

37 

3 

9 

8 

47 

3 

11 

5 

28 

1 

19 

11 

38 

2 

11 

3 

48 

3 

14 

8 

29 

2 

0 

8 

39 

2 

12 

11 

49 

3 

18 

1 

30* 

2 

1 

6 

40 

2 

14 

9 

50 

4 

1 

7 


* A person of 30 may secure £1000 at death for a yearly premium of 
£20 :15s., which iu other Mutual Offices would assure £800 only. 

To Professional Men 

and others whose income is dependent on the continuance of 
health and activity, the system of Assurance is recommended 
—by Premiums restricted to a definite term of payment, as 
shown in the following Table of 


PREMIUMS, Payable for Twenty-One Years only. 
For Assurance of £100 at Death—-with Profits. 


Age. 

Premium limited 
to 21 payments. 

Age. 

Premium limited 
to 21 payments. 

Age. 

Premium limited 
to 21 payments. 

21 

£2 

10 

6 

31 

£2 

16 

2 

41 

£3 

9 

2 

22 

2 

11 

0 

32 

2 

17 

1 

42 

3 

11 

1 

23 

2 

11 

6 

33 

2 

18 

0 

43 

3 

13 

1 

24 

2 

12 

1 

34 

2 

19 

0 

44 

3 

15 

3 

25 

2 

12 

6 

35 

3 

0 

2 

45 

3 

17 

6 

26 

2 

13 

0 

36 

3 

1 

5 

46 

4 

0 

0 

27 

2 

13 

6 

37 

3 

2 

9 

47 

4 

2 

8 

28 

2 

14 

1 

38 

3 

4 

3 

48 

4 

5 

8 

29 

2 

14 

8 

39 

3 

5 

9 

49 

4 

8 

9 

30 

2 

15 

4 

40 

3 

7 

5 

50 

4 

12 

1 


Thus, a person of 30, if unwilling to burden himself with payments 
during his whole life, may secure a Policy for £1000, for a Premium of 
£27; 13 :4 limited to twenty-one yearly payments —being thus relieved of 
payment before he has passed the prime of life—for a Premium little 
higher than most offices require during its whole term. 

/EsT The Premiums may cease after 7, 14, or other number of years. 

Full information may he had at the Head OJJice, or at the 

Branches and Agencies. JAMES WATSON, Manager. 

Edinburgh, April 1SG7. 


London Office, 18 King William Street. 





































HOTELS-GLASGOW-FORT-WILLI AM. 


17 


GLASGOW. 


CRAWFORD’S WAVERLEY HOTEL, 

109 SATJCHIEHALL STREET. 

r jPHE Hotel is new and commodious, and the locality is the 
-A- most respectable and healthy in the city, being within 
easy walk of the West-end Park. Tourists and Commercial 
Gentlemen will find all the comforts of a home at the Waverley. 
Omnibuses to all parts of the city regularly passing the 
door. 

JT .0 - ■ , , r f|! 

BEFORE PURCHASING A 

SEWING-MACHINE 

SEND FOR 

R. E. SIMPSON & CO.’S 

Illustrated Pamphlet, attached to which are Samples of work. 
London, 116 Cheapside ; Edinburgh, 11 Cockburn Street. 
Works—Maxwell Street, Glasgow. 

FORT-WILLIAM. 

CALEDONIAN HOTEL, 

D. CAMPBELL, Proprietor. 

F IRST-CLASS accommodation for Families, Tourists, and Travellers, combined with 
reasonable Charges. Three minutes’ walk from the Pier, where the daily 5*30 a.m. 
Steamer to Glasgow calls'half-a-mile from the foot of the far-famed Ben Nevis. Guides, 
Ponies, etc., kept for ascending the mountain. An Omnibus from the Hotel to aud 
from the Inverness Steamers on the Caledonian Canal, at Bannavie twice a-day. 

The Royal Mail Coach, to and from Kingussie daily, on the route to Glencoe and 
Lochlomond. 

N.B.— Salmon-Fishing with Rod in connection with the said Hotel at 

reasonable rates. 


C 






18 


black’s guide-book advertiser. 


STARCH-MANUFACTURERS TO H.R.H. THE PRINCESS OF WALES. 

GLENFIELD STARCH, 

Exclusively used in the Royal Laundry, and pronounced by her Majesty’s 
Laundress to he the Finest Starch she ever used. 

PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED FOR ITS SUPERIORITY. 

Sold by all Grocers, Chandlers , etc. etc. 
WOTHERSFOOlSr & CO., Glasgow and London. 


OR THE ESTATE OF PEaTOH AND LETTER, 

ryo be Feued, Extensive SHORE GROUNDS, etc., extending for about 
a mile and a half on the Loch Long side of Roseneath. While in 
some parts of the Estate Small Feus, as of an acre or two, may be obtained, 
other parts are well adapted for Feus of large extent, and the Proprietor 
is prepared to arrange for with and Feu these to parties at such annual 
rates as may be agreed upon with him, modified according to the extent of 
Ground proposed to be taken, and its nearness to or greater distance from 
the Shore. 

Apply to the Proprietor at Crachan House, Roseneath. 




BLACK’S 



FISHING BOOKS. 



-♦- 

1. The Practical Angler, by W. C. Stewart 3/6 

2. The Secrets of Angling, by A. S. Moffat 7/6 

3. Fishing Gossip, by H. C. Pennell . 6/ 

4. Angler’s Guide (Suth d .) by And'"'. Young 2/ 

5. Hints to Anglers, by Adam Dryden . 1/6 

















SHIPPING. 


19 


REGULAR STEAM COMMUNICATION BETWEEN 

GLASGOW AND NEW YORK. 


CALEDONIA, 
BRITANNIA, 
UNITED KINGDOM, 


The ANCHOR LINE of Transatlantic Steam-Packet Ships 

EUROPA, HIBERNIA, 

COLUMBIA, IOWA, 

ACADIA, NAPOLI, 

Are intended to Sail regularly 
From GLASGOW for NEW YORK every Friday. 

From NEW YORK for GLASGOW every Saturday. 

(Touching at Moville and Lough Foyle on both outward and homeward passages.) 

Cabin Fares, 11, 13, and 15 Guineas, according to accommodation and situation of 

Berths. 

Return Tickets granted at Reduced Rates. 

Apply to Francis Macdonald & Co., New York ; or to Handysidk & Henderson, 

51 Union Street, Glasgow. 


REGULAR STEAM COMMUNICATION BETWEEN 


GLASGOW, PORTUGAL, SPAIN, ITALY, SICILY, 
-' EGYPT, AND THE ADRIATIC- 


The ANCHOR LINE of Peninsular and Mediterranean Steam-Packets 


ACADIA, 

GRECIAN, 

TROJAN, 

THEBAN, 


VENEZIA, 

VALETTA, 

NAPOLI, 


ROMA, 

MACEDON, 

SPARTAN, 


Are intended to be despatched from Glasgow as follows 


GENOVA, 
MESSINA, 
LIVORNO, 
DOM PEDRO, 


For Lisbon, Gibraltar, Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Messina, and Palermo—every Week. 
For Tunis, Malta, and Alexandria—twice a-Month. 

For Trieste and Venice—once a-Month. 


Lisbon . . 
Gibraltar . 
Genoa . . . 

Leghorn , . 


Cabin Fares from Glasgow to 


£6 

8 

12 

13 


6 

8 

12 

13 


Naples . 

: . £14 

14 

Messina . 

. . 14 

14 

Catania . 

. . 14 

14 

Palermo 

. . 14 

14 


Venice . . 
Trieste . . 
Malta . . 
Alexandria 


Including Provisions, but without Wines or Liquors . 


£16 16 
16 16 
12 12 
15 15 


Return Tickets granted on Moderate Terms to or from any one Port. 

These Tickets entitle Passengers to break the journey at any Port or Ports, proceed¬ 
ing by the succeeding Steamers of the Company till they reach their destination, and 
are available to return within Six Months from date of issue. 

Liberal terms will be allowed to Tourist Parties numbering Four and upwards. 

The Round Voyage by these Steamers, usually occupying about Seven Weeks, pre¬ 
sents a Route of unequalled interest—Lisbon, Gibraltar, Genoa, Leghorn, Pisa, Florence, 
Rome, Naples, Sicily, Venice, and Trieste, being all embraced within the circle of their 
sailings ; and Passengers from Scotland visiting the Holy Land will find this Route, via 
Egypt, to be the cheapest and most expeditious. 

° The Cabin accommodation by all the Steamers is of the most comfortable descrip¬ 
tion, and as the Fares are moderate the attention of Tourists and Travellers is spe¬ 
cially directed to the Steamers of this Line. 

For Freight or Passage apply to Handyside & Henderson, 51 Union Street, 

Glasgow. 













20 


black’s gutde-book advertiser. 


Now Ready, 

PHOTOGRAPHS OF 

GLASGOW AND THE CLYDE. 

(First Series.) 

12 Views, 7 x 4?, 4to, cloth gilt, 15s. 

12 Views, 4 x 3J, 8vo, cloth gilt, 7s. 6d. 


KILLARNEY, 

{Second Edition .) 

12 Views, 7 x 4 2 , 4to, cloth gilt, 15s. 

12 Views, 4 x 32, 8vo, cloth gilt, 7s. 6d. 


DUBLIN AND KINGSTOWN. 

12 Views, 7 x 4|, 4to, cloth gilt, 15s. 

12 Views, 4 x 3 2 , 8vo, cloth gilt, 7s. Gd. 


THE GIANT’S CAUSEWAY AND THE NORTH. 

12 Views, 7 x 4|, 4to, cloth gilt, 15s. 

12 Views, 4 x 3J, 8vo, cloth gilt, 7s. Gd. 


GEMS OF IRISH SCENERY. 

12 Views, 7 x 4J, 4to, cloth gilt, 15s. 

12 Views, 4 x 3J, 8vo, cloth gilt, 7s. Gd. 


CASTLES AND ABBEYS IN IRELAND. 

12 Views, 7 x 4£, 4to, cloth gilt, 15s. 


*** V these Views may be had separately {unmounted, for Scrap-Bool's 
—the Large View's, Is. ; Small, Gd.) through any Bookseller, or post free from 

A. DXJTHIE, Photographic Publisher, Glasgow, 

and sold by all Booksellers, and at the Railway Stations. 








HOTELS-INVERNESS. 


21 


INVERNESS. 

MARSHALL’S RAILWAY STATION HOTEL 

NOTICE TO THE PUBLIC. 

"OARTIES travelling from South to North, and vice versa , 
will find this very large and handsome Hotel adjoining 
the Station, whereby they can arrive at, or depart from, the 
Hotel under cover. 

The House was specially built for a Hotel, is elegantly 
furnished with all modern improvements, and contains numerous 
Suites of Private and Public Rooms, including Coffee-Room, 
Ladies’ and Gentlemen’s Coffee-Room, Smoking-Rooms, Billiard- 
Room, Bath-Rooms, &c. Nearly 100 Beds can be made up. 

Table d’Hote Daily. 

Omnibuses will carry passengers to and from the Canal 
Steamers. 

CALEDONIAN HOTEL, 

INVERNESS. 

TOITN MENZIES, late of the Balloch Hotel, Loch Lomond, has now 
* * taken a lease of the above First-class Large and Commodious Hotel, 
that has been frequented for many years by almost all the best Families in 
Europe, and as he intends giving his whole attention to the business, ex¬ 
pects to merit a large share of patronage from Families and others visiting 
the Capital of the Highlands. The Hotel is in close proximity to the 
Railway Station, and the view from the windows of the river Ness and 
surrounding district is most excellent. 

TABLE D’HOTE AND DINNERS A LA CARTE. 

INVERNESS AND PERTH RAILWAY. 

GRANTOWN, STRATHSPEY, 

(Patronised by Her Majesty the Queen.) 

GRANT ARMS HOTEL. 

A BOUT Two Hours from Blair-Atliole, and the same from Inverness, by the Highland 
Railway. First-class accommodation at this Hotel. Beautiful Drives, River and 
Mountain Scenery, in the-Neighbourhood. 

Families and Tourists travelling by the Inverness and Perth Railway will find this a 
most convenient and comfortable resting-place on their way going North or South. 

Superior Horses and Carriages for Hiring. 

RW Tourists are Posted on to Braemar and Ballater. See Tourists’ Routes. Rail 
to Grantown; Post-Horses to Braemar, Ballater, Balmoral, &c. 

The Hotel Bus attends the Trains. A. FRASER, Proprietor. 






22 


black’s guide-book advertiser. 


p 


STEPHENS’ 

COMMERCIAL HOTEL, 

CORK, 

Nearly opposite the General Post-Office , 

OSSESSES First-Class Accommodation for Families, Tourists, 
and Commercial Gentlemen. 

CHARGES VERY MODERATE. 


THE ROYAL ALBERT HOTEL, 

3 and 4 LOWER DOMINICK STREET, DUBLIN. 

Superior Accommodation on the most Moderate Terms. 

A Night Porter in Attendance. 

BERNARD M‘MAHON, Proprietor. 

TO TOURISTS. 

TOURISTS AND STRANGERS IN GLASGOW 

WILL FIND A LARGE VARIETY OF 

STEREOSCOPIC AND ALBUM 

VIEWS OF SCOTTISH SCENERY, 

GUIDE-BOOKS, MAPS, 

CLAN TARTAN WORK, 

AND BOOKS SUITABLE FOR RAILWAY READING, AT 

JAME,S REID’S, Bookseller and Stationer, 

144 ARGYLE STREET, GLASGOW. 

PHOTOGRAPHIC SOUVENIR OF SC0TLAND7 

Gilt, 105. 6d or Extra Morocco, 20s. 

THE LADY OF THE LAKE, 

By Sir WALTER SCOTT, Bart. 

Profusely Illustrated with Woodcuts hy Btrket Foster and John Gilbert, 
and Photographs hy G. W. Wilson of Aberdeen. 
EDINBURGH : A. & C. BLACK. 









HOTELS-IRELAND. 


23 


COLEMAN’S PORTRUSH HOTEL. 

WILLIAM COLEMAN, Proprietor. 

T \T C. respectfully solicits a continuance of that distinguished support 
' ’ * which he gratefully acknowledges to have received for so many 
years. The Hotel commands a fine view of THE SKERRIES, DUNLUCE 
CASTLE, and THE GIANT’S CAUSEWAY, being only an hour’s drive 
from the latter. It has every comfort and convenience for the accommo¬ 
dation of Families and Tourists, and contains upwards of Fifty Apartments, 
including several Private Sitting-rooms, Billiard and Smoking Room, &c. 

Attached to the Hotel is one of the best Posting Establishments in 
the North of Ireland. An Omnibus attends the arrival of all Trains, and 
conveys Passengers to and from the Hotel and Steamboats free of charge. 

The Times and other leading English and Irish Papers taken daily. 


GIANT’S CAUSEWAY HOTEL. 


W. Coleman begs to inform his Patrons that he has become Proprietor 
also of this Hotel, which he has completely refitted. The arrangements 
and rates are the same as those which have given so much satisfaction at 
his Portrush Establishment. 

The Giant’s Causeway Hotel, being immediately above the Causeway 
itself, is admirably situated for Tourists having only a short time to spare, 
and also for those who wish to spend some time in the Neighbourhood. 

A two-horse Van starts daily from the Hotel to the Giant’s Causeway 
at 9.40 A.M., on arrival of the first train from Belfast and Londonderry ; 
returning from the Causeway at 2 P.M., arriving in time for the afternoon 
trains—from 1st June to 1st October. Tourists travelling by this convey¬ 
ance to the Causeway will be supplied with a Ticket at the Hotel. 

The Hotel is commodious, and, in every respect, a First-Class Estab¬ 
lishment. Boats and Guides provided. Vans to and from Portrush daily. 

Wines, Spirits, Ale and Porter, Lemonade, Soda-Water, 

Seidlitz- Water, dec ., of the Finest Quality. 


HOTEL CHARGES AT BOTH ESTABLISHMENTS. 

Board, including Bed Room, 35s. eacli per week. 


Sitting-Room 
Attendance . 
Visitors’ Servants 

s. d. s. 

Sitting-Room per day from 2 0 to 3 

Bed-Room . . . from 1 6 to 2 

Sitting-Room Fire per day . . 0 

Breakfast . . . from 1 6 to 2 


from 12s. to 21s. 

5s. 
21s. 




Hot Lunch 
Cold do. . 
Dinner 


from 1 


d. s. 
. 1 
. 1 
8 to 3 
. 4 


Baths— Hot, Cold, and Shower. 


Visitors’ Servants per day 
Attendance charged in the Bill. 


POSTING-. 

Private Cars, Carriages, &c., ready on the Shortest Notice. 
Tourists, on arriving at Portrush, will please inquire for^\ 

COLEMAN’S PORTRUSH HOTEL. 


d. 

<5 

3 

0 

0 




24 


black’s guide-book advertiser. 


KENMORE HOTEL, PERTHSHIRE, 

W. MUNEO, Proprietor. 


mms well-known first-class Hotel, which has been handsomely refurnished, 
and tastefully remodelled, will be found by Families and Tourists to be 
replete with every accommodation and comfort, combined with moderate 
charges. 

Kenmore is situated at the east end of Loch Tav, in the centre of the 

“ Land of brown heath and shaggy wood, 

Land of the mountain and the flood,” 

and is about six miles distant from the Aberfeldy Station of the Highland 
Railway, from and to which the Hotel Bus runs during the summer 
months. 

The district around Kenmore teems with objects of great beauty and in¬ 
terest, among which are Taymouth Castle , the noble seat of the Campbells, 
with its princely demesne ; Taymouth Garden, with its rare collection of 
trees, plants, and flowers ; The Falls of Acharn, with their quaint Hermitage 
and antiquated Hermit; The Holy Island, on which are still to be seen the 
ruins of a Priory founded in 1122, where Sybilla, Queen of Alexander I. of 
Scotland, was buried. The Fort, with its unequalled view ; and Drummond 
Hill, with its extended and gorgeous prospect. 

The Drives from Kenmore to the “ Bilks o’ Aberfeldy,” Castle Menzies, 
Pass of Killiecrankie, Rannoch, the wild and romantic Glenlyon, Ben Lawers, 
Killin, Finlarig (the burial-place of the Campbells), Glenquaich, Sraa’ Glen, 
etc., are unsurpassed in the Highlands for beauty, grandeur, and sublimity 
of scenery. 

Parties residing at the Hotel are allowed the privilege of fishing for sal¬ 
mon and trout in Loch Tay and River Lyon, and Boats with experienced 
boatmen are always in readiness. 

Coaches pass daily during the summer months to and from Aberfeldy, 
Callander, Loch Lomond, Fort-William, Oban, and Glasgow. 

The Posting Department is conducted with every regard to comfort 
safety, and expedition. 

i Letters for Apartments, Conveyances, etc., punctually attended to. 
Kenmore Hotel, April 1867. 



HOTELS-LOCIILOMOND-LONDON. 


25 


HEAD OF LOCHLOMOND. 

iTGREGOR’S INVERARNAN HOTEL 

rpHE nearest starting-point on the Lake (by 10 miles) for Oban, Glencoe, Fort-Wil- 
liani, Killin, Kenmore, and Aberfeldy. Coaches during the season for above, start 
daily from the Hotel, where seats are secured. The Hotel is newly and handsomely 
furnished; and to Tourists, Families, etc., travelling, the Lessee can guarantee com¬ 
fort, quiet, and attention equal to what can be enjoyed in any Lake or other Hotel in 
the Highlands. The Hotel is situated iu midst of hill and mountain scenery which for 
grandeur and variety cannot be surpassed. And adjacent, and within easy access, are 
the famous Falls of Fallocli, cascades of Inisli and Arnon, Rob Roy’s birthplace and 
cave, all of which are so much admired by Tourists. 

From the very beautiful and secluded situation of this Hotel, it is peculiarly adapted 
for those who desire to sojourn for a few weeks in the Highlands. Posting in all its 
branches. A Bus waits the arrival of the steamers during the season. Fishing 
iu the Falloch. Boats for the Lake. 

1st May 1S6T. 

LOCH LOMOND. 

BALLOGH HOTEL, FOOT OF LOCHLOMOND. 

Patronised by the Empress of the French. 

T HE above first-class Hotel is beautifully situated at tlie foot of the 
“ Queen of, Scottish Lakes,” and at an easy distance from the Rail¬ 
way Station. Visitors will have every comfort, combined with moderate 
charges. Parties purposing to proceed by first Steamer up Lochlomond 
would do well to arrive at the Hotel the previous evening. 

Posting in all its branches. Boats, with steady Boatmen, for the Lake. 

GEORGE M‘DOUGALL, Proprietor. 


LONDON. 

HATCHETT’S HOTEL, 

PICCADILLY, AND DOVER STREET, 

ESTABLISHED 100 YEAES. 

Good eds, Good Living:, Cleanliness, and Comfort, 
Combined with Moderate Charges. 

PORTER UP ALL NIGHT; WARM BATHS; SERVANTS CHARGED, IF DESIRED. 

CELEBRATED FOR THE SALE OF CHOICE WINES. 





26 


black’s guide-book advertiser. 


KILLIN HOTEL, LOCH TAY, PERTHSHIRE. 

JOHN MTHERSON 


M OST respectfully intimates that he has become lessee of the above Hotel,, the whole 
of which has been comfortably and elegantly furnished. Nobility, Gentry, Tour¬ 
ists, and others patronising him, may depend on every attention conducive to comfort, 
combined with moderate charges. The Hotel is situated amongst the finest scenery. 
Anglers residing at the Hotel will have every facility afforded for Trout and Salmon 
Fishing on Loch Tay. 

The principal Highland Coaches run by Killin .—See Advertisements in Time-Iables. 

*** The Posting and Hiring Establishment is complete. 

Letters by Post will be carefully attended to. 

Killin Hotel, Perthshire, April 1867. 


MELROSE. 

GEORGE HOTEL. 

MENZIES begs to call the attention of Strangers visiting Melrose 
^ * to the comforts of this Establishment, being the only Hotel in Melrose patron¬ 
ised by the Royal Family and the Empress of the French, etc. etc. 

As advertisements often mislead Strangers, J. Menzies would advise Tourists 
generally, on arriving at Melrose, to judge for themselves. 

CARRIAGES OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. 


April 1867. 


Family Coffee-Room. 


J. MENZIES. 


KING’S ARMS HOTEL, 

MELROSE. 

rFHIS old established Hotel having, since its purchase by WILT JAM 
CLEAVER, been very much enlarged and wholly refurnished, he can confidently 
recommend its home comforts aud moderate charges to Travellers and Tourists. 

It is within three minutes’ walk of the Abbey and Railway Station. 

An Omnibus and first-class Carriages await the arrival of each Train. 


WILLIAM CLEAVER, Proprietor. 


PENZANCE—SEASIDE. 

QUEEN’S HOTEL, on the ESPLANADE. 

r PRE only Hotel at this delightful watering-place that commands 
A an uninterrupted view of the Mounts Bay is the Queen’s ; making up 50 Beds and 
a proportionate number of Sitting-Rooms, Coffee, Billiard, and Smoking Rooms, the 
whole of which overlook the sea. Hot and Cold Baths. Posting. 

An Omnibus from the Hotel meets every Train. 

HENRY BLACKWELL, Proprietor. 





HOTE LS-MELROS E. 


27 



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23 


black’s guide-book advertiser. 


OBAN. 


CAMPBELL’S GREAT WESTERN HOTEL 


(Late of the CALEDONIAN) 


H AS been recently enlarged and improved. From the long 
and extensive patronage received, Visitors are assured that 
no effort will be spared to render the Hotel worthy of public 
support. 

Messrs. Hutcheson and Company’s swift and elegant Steamers 
sail daily during Summer (Sunday excepted) to Greenock, Glas¬ 
gow, Fort-William, Inverness; and for Staffa, Iona, and Glencoe 
three times a-week ; for Skye and the Western Isles twice a- 
week. Coaches also arrive and depart from the Hotel daily ; 
and private conveyances can be had on the shortest notice. 

Oban, April 1867. 



CEA1G-ARD HOTEL, OBAN. 

rjniE accommodation of this new and spacious Hotel is ample, the rooms lofty and 
well-aired, near the Steamboat Pier, and command one of the most extensive 
views in Argyleshire. 

Mrs. M Laurin, in returning thanks to the Nobility, Gentry, and Tourists for the 
liberal support she has for many years received at the Woodside Hotel (which she still 
maintains), hopes, by sparing no exertions to secure comfort, to be honoured with the 
amount of patronage as on former occasions. 






































HOTELS-rERTI] SHIRE. 


29 


PERTHSHIRE. 

LOCHEARNHEAD HOTEL, BALQUHIDDER. 


HER MAJESTY’S FIRST ROUTE IN THE HIGHLANDS 
FROM TAYMOUTH CASTLE. 


HIS Hotel, situated at the foot of the wild Glen Ogle and 



in the far-famed parish of Balquhidder, having been con¬ 
siderably enlarged and nearly rebuilt and refurnished, offers 
first-class accommodation to Private Families, Tourists, and 
Travellers. 

The views from the oriel windows of the Sitting-Rooms and 
large new Coffee-Rooms command the magnificent scenery of 
Lochearn and the surrounding country, including the upper 
part of Strathearn. 

The Proprietor tabes this opportunity to thank those of his 
friends who have hitherto patronised his Hotel, and begs to assure 
them and the public generally that no pains will be spared to 
increase their comfort and accommodation during their stay at 
his house, combined with strictly moderate charges. 

The Hotel, from its beautiful situation and quiet character 
of the place, with its many objects of interest in the locality 
and along the various routes above mentioned, is particularly 
adapted for Families or Parties who wish to stay any length of 
time. The Hotel is entirely supplied by the produce of the 
Farm connected with it. 

Boats are kept for Fishing on the Loch, and carriages of 
all kinds ready at a feiv minutes’ notice for Posting or Driving. 

There is a Daily Mail. A Four-horse Coach runs daily in 
the Summer months to and from Aberfeldy and Callander Rail¬ 
way Stations. A railway is now being made from Callander to 
Lochearnliead. 


Orders by Post promptly attended to. 

ROBERT P. DAYTON", Proprietor. 


Lochearn head, C rieff. 




30 


black’s guide-book advertiser. 


PERTH. 

POPLE’S BRITISH HOTEL. 

(OPPOSITE THE GENERAL STATION.) 

Patronised by their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales, and other 

Members of the Royal Family. 

'PHIS HOTEL has long stood pre-eminent, and the Proprietor •would remark that the 
I same care and unremitting attention, which is universally acknowledged by all who 
have patronised him, will be his constant study to continue. 

PERTH. 

SALUTATION HOTEL (Carmichael's). 

T OURISTS and Visitors to the Fair City will tind every comfort and attention at this 
old-established Hotel. The liberal encouragement received has induced the Pro¬ 
prietor further to improve the Hotel, and to add a superior Billiard-Room, with a first- 
class Table. While grateful for past favours, it will be his constant endeavour to keep 
up the good name of the “ Salutation,” and to make it a first-class house in every 7 par¬ 
ticular, &c. For Ladies, a large well-appointed Coffee-room is provided, and special 
advantages in accommodation for Commercial Gentlemen. Posting and Hiring in all its 
departments. 

KFT An Omnibus awaits the arrival of all Trains. 

Salutation Hotel, Perth. PETER CARMICHAEL, Proprietor. 

PERTH. 

EWAN’S 

QUEEN’S HOTEL. 

Opposite the General Railway Station. 

THAT IS THE HOUSE TO GO TO. 

VICTORIA HOTeTlTROThESAY. 



JOHN WILSON, 

Late Steward of the Glasgow, Belfast , and Dublin Royal Mail Steamers. 

HOT, GOLD, AND SHOWER SEA-WATER BATHS. 





In the 

Scottish Widows’ Fund 

THE LARGEST MUTUAL LIFE OFFICE 

IN THE WORLD, 

Profits on the Largest Scale are Realised, and the 
Whole Profits Divided among Policyholders. 

HENCE, 

In the Scottish Widoivs ’ Fund y Life Assurance is 
conducted under the most favourable circumstances for 
the Assured. 

HEAD OFFICE : No. 9 ST. ANDREW SQUARE, EDINBURGH. 
LONDON^. . . 4 Royal Exchange Buildings, Cornhill. 
DUBLIN ... 9 Lower Sackville Street. 

GLASGOW. . . 141 Buchanan Street. 

MANCHESTER . 39 Cross Street, King Street. 

LIVERPOOL . . Oriel Chambers, 14 Water Street. 

LEEDS . . 18 East Parade, 


There are no Shareholders entitled to receive Dividends 
out of the Profits, as in Life Assurance Companies of 
the Proprietary Class. This single circumstance retains 
for the Policyholders an Annual Sum equivalent to a 
substantial Bonus , which would otherwise 

Be lost to them. 

At the last Septennial Division of profits (as at 31st 
December 1859), the Bonuses actually declared varied 
between 

£ 1 , 12s. 6d. and £3, 6s. per cent, per annum 
on the Original Sums Assured, according to the duration 
of the Policies. 






Scottish Widows’ Fund Life Assurance Society. 


During the Septennial Period i860 to 1866 

UNPRECEDENTED SUCCESS 


has attended the operations of the Society, as shewn 
in the following comparative results :— 



i860. 

1866. 

Hew Assurances . 

• .£380,305 

£1,235,812 

Invested Funds 

. 3,518,230 

4,375,000 

Annual Revenue . 

412,767 

590,000 

Interest on Securities 

£4 p. ct. 

£4:10s p. ct. 


Annual Premiums for the Assurance of £ 100. 


With Profits. 


Age. 

Premium. 

Age. 

Premium. 

Age. 

Premium. 

19 

£2 

I 

2 

33 

£2 

15 

5 

47 

£4 

1 

1 

20 

2 

2 

1 

34 

2 

16 

9 

48 

4 

3 

7 

21 

2 

3 

1 

35 

2 

18 

2 

49 

4 

6 

11 

22 

2 

3 

11 

36 

2 

19 

9 

50 

4 

10 

7 

23 

2 

4 

9 

37 

3 

1 

3 

51 

4 

14 

8 

24 

2 

5 

7 

38 

3 

3 

0 

52 

4 

18 

11 

25 

2 

6 

6 

39 

3 

4 

6 

53 

5 

3 

6 

26 

2 

7 

6 

40 

3 

6 

3 

54 

5 

8 

5 

27 

2 

8 

6 

41 

3 

8 

2 

55 

5 

13 

8 

28 

2 

9 

7 

42 

3 

10 

0 

56 

5 

19 

3 

29 

2 

10 

8 

43 

3 

12 

0 

57 

6 

5 

4 

30 

2 

11 

9 

44 

3 

14 

1 

58 

6 

11 

10 

31 

2 

12 

11 

45 

3 

16 

4 

59 

6 

18 

4 

32 

2 

14 

2 

46 

3 

18 

7 

60 

7 

4 

9 


Forms of Proposal for Assurances may be obtained 
at the Head Office , Branches , or Agencies. 

SAMUEL RALEIGH, Manager. 

Afiril 1867 . J. J. P. ANDERSON, Secretary. 



























black’s guide-book advertiser. 


33 


PRIZE MEDAL 1862. 



“ Mr. Marshall’s productions are not surpassed in interest and beauty by those of 
Castellani himself .”—Correspondent of the Scotsman on the International Exhibition. 



INVERNESS. 

P G. WILSON, Manufacturer of Highland Ornaments, Jeweller, Silver- 
• smith, and Watchmaker, invites the attention of those who reside 
in or visit the Capital of the Highlands to his Stock, -which contains a large 
selection of Jewellery, made in his Establishment, No. 8 Union Street, In¬ 
verness, including all the old favourite Highland Patterns, and many New 
Designs, which have been executed with much care, and which he has had 
the honour of supplying to Her Majesty the Queen, their .Royal Highnesses 
the Prince and Princess of Wales, the Royal Family, Baron and Baroness 
Rothschild and Suite, &c. &c. 

CAIRNGORM AND SCOTCH PEBBLE BROOCHES IN GOLD, 

From £10 to £1 :10s., and Silver from £5 to 5s. each. 

DIRKS, SKEAN-DHUS, SPORRANS, SHOULDER-BROOCHES, 

And all the Ornaments requisite for the Highland Costume. 

CREST-BROOCHES, PINS, RINGS, EARRINGS, STUDS, & BUTTONS, 

Made to order from a Pattern or Description. 

Orders by Post receive the most careful attention, and Jewellery sent safe 
and Post-paid to all parts of the world. 























34 black’s guide-book advertiser. 

TOURISTS AND TRAVELLERS, 

Exposed to the scorching rays of the sun and heated particles of dust, will find 

ROWLANDS’ KALYDOR, 

A most refreshing preparation for the Com¬ 
plexion, dispelling the cloud of languor and 
relaxation, allaying all heat and irritability, 
and immediately affording the pleasing sen¬ 
sation attending restored elasticity and 
healthful state of the Skin. 

Freckles, Tan, Spots, Pimples, Flushes, 
and Discoloration, fly before its application, 
and give place to delicate clearness, with 
the glow of beauty and bloom. In cases of 
sunburn or stings of insects, its virtues 
have long been acknowledged. Price 4s. 6d. 
and Ss. 6d. per bottle. 

The heat of Summer also frequently communicates a dryness to the Hair, and a 
tendency to fall off, which may be completely obviated by the use of 



ROWLANDS’ MACASSAR OIL, 

A delightfully fragrant and Transparent Preparation, and as an invigoratoi’ and 
beautifier of the Hair beyond all precedent. Prices 3s. 6d., 7s., 10s. (3d. (equal to four 
small), and 21s. per bottle. 


ROWLANDS’ ODONTO, or PEARL DENTRIFICE, 

A white Powder compounded of tbe rarest and most fragrant exotics. It bestows on 
the teeth a pearl-like Whiteness, frees them from Tartar, and imparts to the Gums a 
healthy firmness, and to the breath a delicate fragrance. Price 2s. 9d. per box. 

Sold by Chemists and Perfumers. *** Ask for “ Rowlands’ ” articles. 


IMPORTERS OF 

TURKEY AND INDIAN CARPETS. 

WATSON, BONTOR, AND CO. 

Carpet-Manufacturers to Her Majesty the Queen and H.R.H. the Prince of 

Wales. 


Also their own exclusive Designs, and suitable for every style of Decoration. 

35 & 36 OLD BOND STREET, LONDON, W. 

EXHIBITION MEDALS, 1851, 1862, and DUBLIN 1865. 










35 ‘ 


black’s guide-book advertiser. 



Pi 'ice 10**. 10tZ., sent free. 


THIS WIDELY-KENOWNED 

“TOURIST’S FAVOURITE 


Distinctly shows Small Windows 10 Miles off, Landscape at 30 Miles, 
Venus in Crescent, Mountains of the Moon, Jupiter's Satellites, etc. 


Marquis of Carmarthen : “ The Recon- 
noiterer is very good.” 

Earl of Caithness : “ It is a beautiful 
Glass.” 

Earl of Breadalbane : “ I find it all you 
say, and wonderfully powerful for so 
very small a Glass.” 

Lord Garvagh : “ Remarkably good.” 

Rf.v. Lord Scarsdale “approves of it.” 

Lord Gifford : “ Most useful.” 

Sir Digby Cayley : “ It gives me com¬ 
plete satisfaction, and is wonderfully 
good.” 

Sir W. H. Fielden : “ For its size, I do 
not consider it can be surpassed. It 
gives great satisfaction.” 

Major Starkey, of Wrenbury: “ Quite 
as powerful as that for which I gave 
£5 :5s.” 

Capt. Sendey, Royal Small Arms Factory, 
Enfield: “ I have found it effective at 
the 1000 yards range.” 

F. H. Fawkes, of Farnley, Esq. : “ I never 
before, although I have tried many, met 


a glass combining so much power, for its 
size, with so much clearness.” 

Our “ Archery Correspondent ” {Queen) 
says : “ The portability of the Recon- 
noiterer Glass is notits least recommend¬ 
ation ; while its adaptability to. uses in 
which protracted and minute observation 
of arrows entering various ranges at dif¬ 
ferent distances is absolutely necessary, 
as in archery matches, renders the Re- 
eonnoiterer one of the best aids to visual 
power ever placed at the command of 
toxophilites.” 

The Field: “The economy of price is not 
procured at the cost of efficiency. We 
have carefully tried the instrument at an 
800-yard rifle range, against all the glasses 
possessed by the members of the corps, 
and found it fully equal to any of those 
present, although they had cost more 
than four times its price. ” 

Notes and Queries: “What Tourist will 
now start without such an Indispen¬ 
sable Companion ?” 


The Celebrated “ HYTHE” Class shows Bullet-Marks at 1200 Yards, and 

Men at 34 Miles. Price 315. 6d. 


65T These Glasses form the very best Tourists’ Companions that can possibly be 
selected, and accordingly the number annually sold for the purpose is enormous. 

.11 the above, respectively bearing the Registered Trade-Marks, “ Reconnoiterer ” 
and “ Hythe,” are only to be had direct from, and by written application to, 

SALOM AND CO., 

>8 Princes Street, Edinburgh, and 137 Regent Street, London. 

A few hours suffice to carry a “ Reconnoiterer” to almost the remotest Post Town in the 
Kingdom. Most positively no Agents of any kind anywhere. 






BRANCH—42 Sackville Street (3 doors off), Piccadilly 


36 


block’s guide-book advertiser. 


MACDOUGALL & GO. 

THE ROYAL 

CLAN TARTAN WAREHOUSE, 

INVERNESS, 

, AND 

^ 42 Sackville Street (3 doors off), Piccadilly, LONDON, 

MANUFACTURERS TO 

HER MAJESTY AND THE ROYAL FAMILY, 

THEIR ROYAL HIGHNESSES THE PRINCE AND PRINCESS OF WALES, 

And the Courts of France, Russia , Prussia , and Spain , 

Respectfully solicit attention to the largest and most varied assort¬ 
ment of Scotch Goods in the Kingdom, for which their establishment 
has been so long famed, and for which they -were awarded a FIRST- 
CLASS PRIZE MEDAL in the Great International Exhibition of 
1862 . _ 

THE HIGHLAND COSTUME, complete and correct with all the necessary 
Highland ornaments, as they have the honour of regularly supplying to the 
English and French Courts. 

THE FAMOUS HIGHLAND CLOAK, of which they are the Inventors, and 
only supply in the correct style. 

FOR DEER-STALKING AND GROUSE-SHOOTING, an endless variety 
of the most approved Fabrics for Mountain, Moor, and River, including their 
old Standard Patterns so well known to all Sportsmen. 

FOR TOWN WEAR, an immense variety of the most delightful textures in 
Heather, Granite, Stone, and other Plain and Fancy Patterns. 

LINSEY-WOOLSEYS in superb qualities, and the newest shades and 
patterns for Ladies’ Town and Country Wear. 

TARTANS, TWEEDS, and SCOTCH POPLINS in exquisite textures, for 
Ladies’ Dresses, Cloaks, Jackets, Dressing-Gowns, Riding-Habits, etc. etc. 

An unrivalled.selection of SHAWLS, PLAIDS, CLOAKS, JACKETS, Real 
(undyed) Vicuna Shaws, Plaids, Jackets, etc.; Fine Knitted Shetland Shawls 
and Hosiery; Deer-Stalking Hoods, Capes, and Ponchos ; Railway Wrappers; 
Kilt and Knickerbocker Hose ; Stalking Hats, Bonnets, Caps, Gloves, Hand¬ 
kerchiefs, Scarfs, Waterproof Coats, Capes, Leggings, etc. etc. etc. 

THIN SCOTCH TWEEDS and FLANNELS specially prepared for Tropical 
Climates, Medically declared to be more healthy than either cotton orlinen fabrics. 


Tweeds Designed and made to Suit any Particular District. 
CARPETS, CRUMB-CLOTHS, HORSE-CLOTHS, BED-COVERS, ETC. 

Made in all the Clan Tartans. 

PATTERNS AND FORMS FOR SELF-MEASUREMENT FREE BY POST. 


Goods forwarded to London and the Provinces free of Carriage, and to all parts 
of the World without risk to the sender. 


GREAT ATTENTION GIVEN TO THE PROMPT AND EXACT EXECUTION OF ALL ORDERS. 


BRANCH—42 Sackville Street (3 doors off), Piccadilly, W. 







black’s guide-book advertiser. 37 



AQUARIA AND FERN-CASES, 

WINDOW GLASS OF EVERY KIND, 

PLAIN OB ORNAMENTAL. 

GLASS AND OTHER MATERIALS FOR PHOTOGRAPHIC PURPOSES, 

WHOLESALE AND RETAIL. 

CLAUDET, HOUGHTON, & SON, 

89 HIGH HOLBORN, LONDON. 

LIST OF PRICES OR ESTIMATE SENT FREE ON APPLICATION. 


B RITISH COLLEGE OF HEALTH, Easton Road, London.— 
Forty years’ use of these medicines (MORISON’S VEGETABLE 
UNIVERSAL MEDICINES) by the public has proved their efficacy and 
virtues, and the truth of Mr. Morison’s system as to the cure of diseases. 
Being composed only of vegetable matter or medicinal herbs, they are found 
by experience to be harmless to the most tender age, or the weakest frame, 
under every stage of human suffering; the most pleasant and benign in 
their operation ever offered to the world; and at the same time the most 
certain in searching out the root of any complaint, however deep, and of 
performing a cure, if within the reach of human means. The medicines 
consist of three sorts, tending to the same purpose—that is, to cleanse and 
purify the blood and fluids. They are named:—No. 1 Pills; No. 2 Pills. 
In boxes at 7^d., Is. l±d., 2s. 9d., and 4s. 6d.; family packets, 11s. each. 
Also the Vegetable Aperient Powders, Is. l£d. per box. Morison’s Vege¬ 
table Universal Medicines are sold by the Hygeian Agents, and all Medi¬ 
cine Vendors. 

Beware of Vaccination, which is a direct poisoner of the blood, and 
therefore the cause of all kinds of disease. 

























38 


black’s guide-book advertiser. 


/ROUGHS, ASTHMA, AND INCIPIENT CONSUMPTION 
^ Are effectually Cured by 

KEATING’S COUGH LOZENGES. 

STATISTICS SHOW THAT 50,000 PERSONS annually fall Victims to Pulmonary 
Disorders, including Consumption, Diseases of the Chest and the Respiratory Organs. 
Prevention is at all times better than cure ; be therefore prepared, during the wet and 
winter season, with a supply of KEATING’S COUGH LOZENGES, which possess the 
virtue of averting as well as of curing a Cough or Cold; they are good alike for the 
young or for the aged. 

Copy of a letter from the late COLONEL HA IVKER (the well-known 
Author of “ GUNS AND SHOOTING .” 

'Longparish House, near Whitchurch, Hants. 
Sir, — I cannot resist informing you of the extraordinary effect I have experienced 
by taking only a few of your LOZENGES. I had a cough for several weeks that defied 
all that had been prescribed for me ; and yet I got completely rid of it by taking about 
half a small box of your Lozenges, which I find are the only ones that relieve the cough 
without deranging the stomach or digestive organs.—I am, Sir, your humble servant, 
To Mr. Keating, 79 St. Paul’s Churchyard. P. HAWKER. 

Prepared and Sold in Boxes, Is. ljd., and Tins, 2s. 9d., 4s. 6d., and 10s. 6d. each, 
by Thomas Keating, Chemist, &c., 79 St. Paul’s Churchyard, London. Retail by all 
Druggists and Patent Medicine Vendors in the world. 


KEATING’S PERSIAN INSECT-DESTROYING POWDER. 

H'HIS Powder is quite harmless to animal life, but is unrivalled in destroying Fleas, 
- A - Bugs, Flies, Cockroaches, Beetles, Gnats, Mosquitoes, Moths in furs, and every 
other species of Insects. 

Sportsmen will find this an invaluable remedy for destroying Fleas in their 
Dogs, as also Ladies for their Pet Dogs. 

TESTIMONIAL. 

Preston, October 24, 1859. 

Sir,—H aving previously used your “ Persian Insect-Destroying Powder ” for exter¬ 
minating Fleas in a little dog, and with success, I shall now feel obliged by your for¬ 
warding me a 3s. package, for which I enclose 36 stamps. 

I am, yours obediently, 

Mr. Keating. JOHN HORROCKS Jun. 

Being the Original Importer of this now invaluable article, which has found so great 
a sale that it has tempted others to vend a so-called article, the Public are therefore 
cautioned to observe that the Packets of the Genuine Powder bear the autograph of 
Thomas Keating. 

Imported and sold in Packets, Is., 2s. 6d., and 4s. 6c?. each ; or Is. Packets, 
free by post, for 14 Postage Stamps, and 2s. Qd. on receipt o/36. 

Also in Bottles, with Bellows, Is. 6d. and 2s. 6d. each, by 

THOMAS KEATING, Chemist, 

! 79 ST. PAUL’S CHURCHYARD, LONDON, E.C. 



black’s guide-book advertiser. 


39 


THE BEST REMEDY FOR INDIGESTION. 

NORTON’S CAHOMILE PILLS 

Are confidently recommended as a simple but certain remedy 
for Indigestion, which is the cause of nearly all the diseases to 
which we are subject, being a Medicine so uniformly grateful 
and beneficial, that it is with justice called the “ Natural 
Strengtliener of the Human Stomach.” NORTON’S PILLS 
act as a powerful tonic and gentle aperient ; are mild in their 
operation; safe under any circumstances ; and thousands of 
persons can now bear testimony to the benefits to be derived 
from their use.—Sold in Bottles at Is. lod., 2s. 9d., and 11s. 
each, in every town in the kingdom. 

CAUTION !—Be sure to ask for “ NORTON’S PILLS,” 
and do not be persuaded to purchase the various imitations. 


A CLEAR COMPLEXION!!! 


GODFREY’S EXTRACT OF ELDER 

FLOWERS 

Is strongly recommended for Softening, Improving, Beautifying, 
and Preserving the SKIN, and giving it a blooming and 
charming appearance. It will completely remove Tan, Sun¬ 
burn, Redness, etc., and, by its Balsamic and Healing qualities, 
render the skin soft, pliable, and free from dryness, etc., clear 
it from every humour, pimple, or eruption; and by continuing 
its use only a short time, the skin will become and continue 
soft and smooth, and the complexion perfectly clear and beauti¬ 
ful.—Sold in Bottles, price 2s. 9d., by all Medicine-Vendors 
and Perfumers. 






PRIZE MEDAL 


40 


black’s guide-book advertiser. 

THE LONDON 

WARMING AND VENTILATING COMPANY 

(limited), 

ABINGDON CHAMBERS, 12 ABINGDON STREET, 

WESTMINSTER, SAY. 

Managing Director and Secretary, Mr. WOODCOCK. 

Churches, Greenhouses, Offices, 
and Buildings of every description, 
warmed by means of a modification 
of the plan successfully used by Sir 
Goldsworthy Gurney in both Houses 
of Parliament. 

Steam, Hot Water, Gas, and in 
open or enclosed fire-places Coal 
and Coke, are equally available for 
i-H the process. 

^ The cost is less and the effect 
p greater than that of any other known 
pj means. 

^ The Horticulturist will find herein 
P* an instrument of new and important 
*** powers. 

For ordinary sitting-rooms, a 
patent fresh-air grate is made use 
of. 

The apparatus may be seen at 
work in the Houses of Parliament , 
the offices of the department of 
Science and Art , in St. Paul’s, 
York Minster, and twelve other 
Cathedrals, besides eight hundred 
churches in England, and Govern¬ 
ment and other Public and Private 
Buildings too numerous to name in 
an advertisement. Particulars and 
testimonials forwarded on applica¬ 
tion. 

H.B .— In order to meet constant applications for the heating of smaller 
"‘rooms, a small Coke Stove has since last season been produced, suitable 
for Sitting-Rooms, Bed-Rooms, small Halls, Offices, and Conservatories. 
Prices from 34s. and upwards. 













































black’s guide-book advertiser. 


41 


By Appointment to the Queen , 

Her Royal Highness the Princess of Wales , 

AND 

H.R.H. the Duchess of Cambridge. 


FAMILY MOURNING. 


MESSRS. JAY 

Would respectfully announce that great saving may be made 
by purchasing Mourning at their Establishment, 

The Stock of Family Mourning being 
the Largest in Europe. 


Mourning Costume of every description is kept ready made, 
and can be forwarded—in Town or Country—at a 
moment’s notice. 

THE MOST REASONABLE PRICES ARE CHARGED 

AND THE 

WEAR OF EVERY ARTICLE GUARANTEED. 
THE LONDON GENERAL 

MOURNING WAREHOUSE, 

REGENT STREET, near the Circus, 

OXFORD STREET. 

JAY’S. 














42 


black’s guide-book advertiser. 

SCOTTISH HISTORY, POETRY, FIELD SPORTS, &c. 


THE HISTORY OF SCOTLAND FROM AGRICOLA’S INVASION TO 
THE REVOLUTION OF 1688. By John Hill Burton. Vols. 1 to 

4. 8vo, 56s. 

THE SCOT ABROAD, AND THE ANCIENT LEAGUE WITH FRANCE. 

By John Hill Burton. Two vols. cr. 8vo, in Roxburghe binding, 15s. 
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LIFE OF JOHN KNOX. Embracing Illustrations of the History of the Re¬ 
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Second Edition. With Twelve Engravings. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
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MAPS OF THE COUNTIES OF SCOTLAND. With the Railways. In 
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THE CAIRNGORM MOUNTAINS. By John Hill Burton. Crown 8vo, 
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TRAVELLING MAP OF SCOTLAND. By A. Keith Johnston, F.R.S.E. 

With Index of easy reference to 9250 Places on the Map. Price, in a 
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GEOLOGICAL MAP OF SCOTLAND. By Professor Nicol, Aberdeen: 
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43 


BLACK S GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. 


BLACK’S NEW LARGE MAP OF ENGLAND, 


In Sixteen Sheets. 



Scale 4 Miles to the Inch. 

Mounted on Rollers and Varnished . . . £/\ : 4s. 

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“ It is the largest and first General Map of England drawn from actual 
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BLACK’S GUIDE-BOOKS —1867. 

HOME. 


Aberdeen and Braemar. is. 
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Separately — North, 3 A. 6d. 
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Where shall we go ? 2s. 6d. 
Yorkshire. 5 a. 


FOREIGN. 

Paris & the Exhibition. 6d. Italy. 5 a. 

France. 5 a. Norway . 5 a. 

EDINBURGH : ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK. 

L. of C. 







NEW FOREIGN GUIDES. 


45 


Now ready , in a neat Volume, fcap. 8vo, price $s. 

BLACK’S GUIDE TO FRANCE. 

Arranged in Alphabetical Order for the convenience of Tourists. 



Edited by David Thomas Ansted, M.A., F.R.S. 

Illustrated by Charts and Plans of Towns introduced throughout the 
Text, and a General Map of France. 

This Guide is prepared on the principle that tourists do not require 
a Gazetteer, nor do they look for a printed account of what they see 
with their own eyes, but a certain amount of suggestive information to 
enable them to fix their routes and save time, and when in a town to 
know what is best worth seeing. As railways govern all movements in 
the way of travel, the Guide is specially constructed with this view. 

EDINBURGH : ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK. 















Ill a neat Pocket Volume, price 5 s. 

With numerous Charts , 

BLACK’S GUIDE TO ITALY. 

Arranged alphabetically for the convenience of Tourists, 
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Charts of Piedmont, Central Italy, Lombardy and Venetia, 
Naples, Bay of Naples, Sicily, Sardinia, Corsica, Calabria 
and Otranto, Malta. 

Diagrams of the Mont Cenis Route, Quadrilateral, Italian 
Lakes, Vatican, Forum, Museo Reale, Naples, &c. &c. 

Plans of Bologna, Florence, Genoa, Mantua, Naples, Rome, 
Turin, Venice. 

EDITED BY 

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EDINBURGH : ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK 
















NEW FOREIGN GUIDES, 


47 



In a cheap handy Volume, price 5s. 

BLACK’S GUIDE TO NORWAY , 

WITH MAP AHD ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Edited by the Rev. J. BOWDEN, 

Laie British Chaplain at Christiania. 

Containing all the information necessary for Travellers : 
Hotels, Routes, Travelling Expenses, &c. —Description of 
the Chief Towns and their Environs—Waterfalls, Lakes, 
Fjelds, Fjords, and Valleys—Salmon Rivers—Angling and 
Game—Botany, Ferns, Minerals, Climate, &c. 


EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK. 












































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